Alpine Club Of Canada

Thunder Bay Section

New Mixed Routes

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CAUTION! Scrambling, technical rock, ice and mixed climbing and mountaineering activities are, by their very nature, potentially hazardous activities. You could be severely injured or killed while participating in them. The information presented in these conditions and trip reports is intended to supplement, NOT replace, sound judgement and experience. The accuracy or truth of any information presented here cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. Conditions in a given area or on a particular climb may (and likely will) vary from day to day or even hour to hour. Ice and mixed climbs in particular may vary considerably in safety, stability and overall condition over a short period of time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information presented here to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. This must not be your only source of information on any given subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors, contributors and The Alpine Club of Canada from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.

These conditions reports are limited to climbs in the Thunder Bay region, and to areas west of and including Thunder Bay, Orient Bay, Kama Hills and Ice Station Superior. All folks posting conditions are required to log in with a valid email address and password. As well, keep your postings clean and limited to conditions reports - this is not intended as a forum for discussion. Any postings containing foul language, erroneous information, false reports, slander, spam or other malicious content will be edited or removed at the discretion of the webmaster. As a rule the ACC Thunder Bay Section does not promote climbing without protective gear such as helmets or ropes. Any posts that suggest soloing or have photos of climbers without protective gear will be edited or removed. Censorship is definitely NOT cool, unfortunately these are our rules.

That said, get out there and start climbing!

If you want a location on any of the routes listed you may find them in the Community Maps

Add New Mixed Route

Hard Target M8- (Ice Palace)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:April 5, 2013

The route shares the start of Ranxerox Tangent, and then moves onto the steep wall to the right.

Climb the first 30' of Ranxerox Tangent and then move right to get the first bolt. Follow a crack using slots, holes, and edges for another 30', at which point the crack peters out. Make a hard move up and right and continue up the right side of the wall to a good stance. Finally, climb a difficult left-leaning crack to a ledge and a two-bolt anchor.

A screw or two for the ice, and 11 bolts. Use long runners on the screw(s). There is a rappel/belay anchor at the top of the route.

drone attack M7+ WI5 (Ice Palace)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:March 26, 2013

A fun route on excellent rock and steep ice, immediately left of the start for Rember the Day. Climb past 9 bolts to a ledge about 80' up, where you'll find a bolt/fixed pin anchor. It's a bit cruxy from the 4th to the 5th bolt, where the parallel-sided crack widens, and the feet get thin, and then again gaining the ledge. Move across the ledge to the right, and climb overhanging and then vertical ice, finishing to the right of the trees above.  Nine bolts to the ledge, 4 - 6 screws for the ice.  Stoppers and cams for the alternate finish.  Belay and rappel from either the Ranxerox Tangent or Remember the Day anchors.

An alternate finish continues up the well-featured rock face (small stoppers, C3's, C4's to 1.5") above the ledge to its end, then move right and finish on easy ice.

Road To Nowhere (Orient Bay (North End))
Submitted by:Adam Dailey
Climbed on:March 3, 2013

M10, 35 meters

FA: Adam Dailey

Report: Equipped by James Loveridge, this route starts at the top of the ice climb “Going Nowhere Fast”. Chop a ledge for a comfortable belay stance, if this has not already been done. There are fixed anchors but you may have to bring long runners to extend them. Otherwise, a 2 or 3 screw belay will do. Start out on good torques to a bomber Jug, to clip the second bolt. The route gets steep quickly from here. Climb through the blocky roof to a good rest before the “business” takes place. From the rest, reach out long to a key hold in the center of the roof. Cut your feet loose and make a series of moves in order to pull the lip (crux). Once your feet are established underneath you again, climb on thin but secure holds about 10 meters to “Nowhere” aka anchors.

 Protection: Fixed Draws/70 Meter Rope

Note: Will Gadd made the second ascent on the same day.

Chronic Optimism (Ice Station Superior)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:January 27th, 2013

Grade 4 +, M?, 35 metres (A0)

Paul Berger & Rod Brown. This climb is past the River of Frozen Dreams, (carefully) through the tunnel, another 150 m then up-slope. It is immediately to the left of Tunnel Vision.

It was optimism and poor judgment that put us on this one. A cam and piton protected the bottom, but not moving onto the icicle. The start was much harder than it looks in this picture, and only possible by chimneying against the leftmost icicle, slowly getting wedged in with feet higher up than in the photo, to get a short screw above the attachment point and a long screw on the left icicle. Moving onto the icicle then meant wrapping both legs around it; too weak at that point to do one arm pullups, I needed to rest hanging on the screw before proceeding, eventually tapping one foot gently into the icicle.

The rest of the route was thinner than expected, but with good protection. Above me in photo number two there's a scary pillar barely visible. Burnout due to mental and physical exhaustion meant another rest on protection on the way to the top, though the climbing wasn't hard. Bad form on a nice route. A great tree at the top.

Probably only forms in very wet years or ones with significant melt and freeze. The last photo is after Rod came up. One kick brought the icicle down.

Glazed and Confused M7+ PG13 (Kama)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:12/16/12
Report:This line is about half-way between Icebreakers and Icebreakers Arête. Climb the lower ice of Kama Bay Cakewalk for about 10m, step right onto a good ledge, then follow the crack that heads up from the right side of the ledge to the top. The route is somewhat sustained, but good stances can be found in a number of places. The crack is annoyingly flared, and is right-side-in for the most part which makes gear a bit tricky to place, because you have to lean to the the right to get a look at it. The gear was generally good, but was tedious to place because of the ice glaze that lined the crack, and covered the entire wall for that matter. The first crux is getting past a small triangular hole about 1/3rd height. The second is climbing off the ledge near the top, just to the right of the big roof. It's about a 15' runout from the ledge to the top, which is protected by a good (now fixed) stopper that I pounded in. I did get a 13cm screw upward in a thin vein of ice right at the top, As with many of the nearby routes, there is ice at the top, but it's thin, and ends rather abruptly. For gear, take a set of stoppers, a couple specters, and cams C3's to a number four Camalot, with doubles of 1, 2, and 3 Camalots. I also had five screws (2-16's, 2-13's, and 1-10cm).
Learn To Swim (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:Jan-2010
Report:Learn to Swim M5 50m
FA: Dean Einerson, Jan. 2010

Located in the chimney between Remember the Day (on the right) and Ranxerox Tangent. It is straightforward: Climb the chimney until you're forced out onto the right wall, then follow the WI4 or so ice to the top.
Obstipation (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:Apr.2007
Report:Obstipation, M6+ R, 40m+
FA: Nick Buda, Bryce Brown
Approach as for the ice routes Hussy's Onus and Contemplation. The climb is located a few hundred metres up and left of Powerline Falls. We walked up the skidoo trail and crossed the bridge over the Powerline drainage, turning left up a faint trail about 500m up. Follow the trail and then bushwack to the talus slope. The climb is visible about 200m left of HO/Contemplation and is a deep twisting chimney with a big curtain of ice at the top and large chockstones near the bottom.

The route begins with stonker drytools over the chockstones (good threads), to the largest which I was forced to drytool around on the face to the right (M5 for a couple moves). The business is the ever narrowing chimney slot with rock gear and then very poor ice. I got severely stuck, my waist and shoulders wedged at the crux. Chopping away some fragile ice features on the left wall made the slot wider by about 6", but I still got good and stuck. Barehanding and chimneying and every other offwidth technique is needed here. Blowing the crux will result in a ledge fall as the ice protection is very poor/nonexistant here. Someone with longer reach could likely place a Lost Arrow way out left. After shimmying through, the chimney opens up and exits on good ice and stemming for 10m to the top. Find a belay/rap station on a healthy white pine about 10m up and left from the top. A standard mixed rack with cams to 2" is more than adequate.

One of the most violently awkward mixed routes I've ever done, much bruising and serious thrutching up the chimney. A good adventure, but one I've no desire to repeat anytime soon. The grade is a rough guide, at times I was more scared than on any WI6 I've managed, but more because of the awkward climbing. M7 went through my head once or twice but more because of the alien technique rather than actual difficulty I think. I recommend doing this BEFORE Easter dinner to make it easier to squeeze through. Thanks for a good day BB.

Also two more M6ish looking routes just to the left, though the ice has delaminated and they should probably get done next season now.
Purusha (Icebreakers Area, Kama Hills)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:Feb 13, 2011

Purusha M7 WI5+ 35M

FA: Dave Rone 2/13/2011

This route is located on the wall around the corner to the right of Whimpsicle.

Work your way up a short right-facing corner to a ledge. Use very small cams (C3 00 & 0) or small stoppers to protect this bit, and once on the ledge, stick a #3 Camalot in the top of the crack on the right. Move slightly left and then up and into the main crack system. The crack gets steeper as you go, but protects well with cams (.75 - 2 Camalot). The crux is moving through the steepest part of the crack while the good footholds disappear, and getting your feet on a ledge to the left, and thin ice to the right. 2 bolts protect these moves.

From here, climb up to and through a chimney (4 bolts) and then out right to a stance on ice, and a decent screw (13cm). Continue up easy ice to a column, capped by an overhanging ice curtain. I got good screws in the column, and then another after getting established on the ice above. Finish to the belay/rappel tree shared with Whimpsickle.

Gear:  00 and 0 C3 or small stoppers, 6 cams from .75 - 3 Camalot, 6 bolts, 5 screws 13 - 19cm.

Cold Standard M7+ (Icebreakers Area, Kama Hills)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:January 15, 2011

Cold Standard

FA:Dave Rone, Dan Wilkinson

Length: 40m

Climb an obvious right-leaning crack to an ice and snow-covered ledge about 30m up. Once on the ledge, climb a small crack a few meters, then traverse left to the ice dagger hanging from the top. Pull onto the dagger and climb ice to the top. For the full beta, continue reading.

Climb mainly edges about 3m to the first pro, a #2 Camelot. From this point on, the route gobbles up gear!  In the first wide-section of crack, use a # 4 Camelot and slide it along as you climb. When the wide crack ends, place a #12 stopper and continue to the next wide-section (crux). Place a #3 Camelot and slide it along until that section ends. As you near the ledge, you'll come to a triangular chockstone wedged in the crack. It's bomber for tools and gear, and it provides a decent rest. A little higher and slightly left there's a big flake which you can use to kind of shake out, but the feet are bad here.  Gear the crack above and scratch your way up and right onto the ledge.

From the ledge climb and protect (long runners) a small crack until you can get a good tool in a small hole/flake in the wall above. I pounded a Spectre in the hole and then stemmed left to the ice, getting a good tool in a small alcove along side the ice. I stuffed a #3 TCU down into the back of alcove and backed it up with #0 C3. Commit to the ice, and climb to the top. I got 1 screw in before the top.

This is a nice line, excellent rock all the way.   The ice will, of course, be variable.  I have a photo from 05/06 that shows a big ribbon of ice running down from the ledge and the dagger touching down.

Location: The route is about 15m north of the Thermocules Chimney, on the way to Whimpsickle. Set up a belay next to a couple birch trees to the climbers left of the start.

Gear:  Stoppers 3 - 12, cams from #00 C3 to #4 Camalot, 1 spectre. No bolts. Rappel from trees at the top of route.

Note:  The route photo was taken a couple of years ago, refer to Terry's conditions photo from 12/29/10 to see what the area looks like now.

Tatooine M8 30M (Orient Bay, Amy R Wall (AWOL))
Submitted by:James Loveridge
Climbed on:March 2010

Tatooine: M8 30M

FA: James Loveridge, March 2010

Apologies for not submitting these sooner…

The route is located at what’s become known as the A-Wall (or A.W.O.L. as your forearms might be Absent With Out Leave after and/or during the ascent of the routes on this wall). It is the north facing wall to the right of “Amy R” and to the left of “The Right Stuff”. Tatooine is the leftmost of the 2 bolted lines. Start up broken flakes to gain 95 degree headwall. Pull through headwall to reach small sloping ramp, then trend right up ramp on less than bomber holds (crux) to corner system (gets easier as you go up). Climb corner system to gain the ledge (another mini crux) under the roof. Pull roof (not as burly as it looks…) and do a couple moves to the Anchors. Bring 12 QD’s (a long fixed cable draw is under the roof).

Arrakis M8+ 30M (Orient Bay, Amy R Wall (AWOL))
Submitted by:James Loveridge
Climbed on:March 2010

Arrakis: M8+ 30M

FA: James Loveridge, March 2010

Apologies for not submitting these sooner…

This route is just right Tatooine and just left of Betrayal Crack (Manufactured Inspiration is farther right, on the rounded corner). Start just left of prominent black streak and climb small broken flakes and seams to large blocky flake system. Torque your way up and slightly left until flakes end, then transition right to another short rail/flake system and head up to an awkward stance below a blank’ish headwall below roof. Climb wall up and right to chunky blocks below roof (technical crux), then burl though a notch in the roof, until you are on your feet and clip the anchors. Bring 12 QD’s.

A note on the names: since both these routes are dry, I let my inner geek out and named them after dry sci-fi planets. Tatooine (tay-too-in) is the fictional Star Wars planet where Luke Skywalker grew up. Arrakis (ah-rack-iss) is the actual name of the planet Dune in the Frank Herbert book of the same name.

Betrayal Crack M6+/7- (Orient Bay, Amy R Wall (AWOL))
Submitted by:James Loveridge
Climbed on:December 1996

Betrayal Crack: M6+/7- 30M 
FA- James Loveridge & Andrew Albosta. December 1996
Orient Bay, South end

This is not a “new” new route but it hasn’t been reported so I thought I’d get it done so it’s in the books and others know it’s there and can give’er a go. I led this route MANY years ago but never reported it as I assumed it was a rock climb and it didn’t have any ice on it so I didn’t think it was “worthy”. Man how times have changed... So after asking around for a few years I am pretty confident that my ascent 14 years ago was the first lead of this route. If someone has information otherwise, please let me know!

Route description? Follow the crack... It was a long time ago but I remember placing cams to 2”, mostly small, a couple Lost Arrows and a couple knife blades. The climbing is not as bomber as it looks (the crack will betray you if you aren’t careful) and it’s not as easy to place gear as you'd think so place a lot. Plus the top-out is sketchy and you are a bit run-out by then. The gear is good though so sew it up and give’er!

Manufactured Inspiration (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:15-Feb-2010

Manufactured Inspiration
M6/7 WI4 35 metres F.A. Wes Bender, Brian Bottan

This route is on the arête to the left of The Right Stuff (Amy R area) Climb past 6 bolts to gain purchase on the steep ice smear that miraculously clings to the wall some how. The route starts on rock with a few bobbles of ice hear and there. On the FA, since we ran out of battery juice, the first 2 bolts were missing, I was able to dig in a manky 13cm screw and then above that I got in a very small stopper. The stopper was small but would have held the fall from anywhere between it and the 3rd (first on the FA) bolt. Climbing was secure up to the 3rd bolt. After the 3rd bolt the climbing becomes more and more sustained and the holds become less and less secure and obvious. Climb past bolts 4,5,6 and gain purchase on the steep, very thin ice. The real crux was the short traverse right and the transition to the ice. 10cm and 13cm screws will get you to the top. The ice is steeper and much more delicate than it appears from the ground.

I know this route will go with some trad gear down low but we are not interested in that. We are developing this climb as a well protected, sport mixed route for people to really get some practice. Being that this may be the lowest rated sport mixed route in OB this will be a good place to start. Provided the ice above is in condition.

Thanks to the gang for helping us figure out the best bolt positions.

Darwin's Illusion (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 3rd, 2009
Report:30 m  gr 3 M6   Rod Brown and Paul Berger.  My desire to drytool diminished considerably following Rod's lead over almost nothing to get to the ice. Two cams, a slung root and then tree protected the bottom. Good ice on the upper section, uniformly steep with not ledge rests for putting in screws. See 'Darwin's Son' for location.
Snake Bite (OB right of Amy R)
Submitted by:James Loveridge
Climbed on:March 1st 2009
Report:Snake Bite: M7-, WI5+/6- R 30M
FA: James Loveridge, Matt Giambrone
March 1st  2009

This is the left-hand dagger of the two that sometimes form at the steep cliff band about 60M right of Amy R. The leader and belayer should climb up snow/ice ramp below the two daggers and set up a belay either off one of the small fir trees out away from the cliff –or- go up to the ice at the base of the pure ice climb on the far left and set a screw belay there. Whichever you prefer, just be sue to be well clear of any falling ice from the dagger.

Start by climbing easy ice up the ramp, then traverse directly right to the seep blobs. Go up obvious features on ever steepening rock to a big hanging tombstone with a sharply in-cut top. Climb steep headwall on tiny edges and thin ice, then trend slightly left up shallow corner with a small column of seep ice in it. If the seep column is thick enough, place a 10cm screw and continue on to the vert top where the ice dead ends. Just above here look for a bomber #2 BD Camalot slot. From here traverse directly right on edges/shelves to reach the back of the dagger. Here you have 2 options: if the dagger sounds ok, one could bust out around the front and run it out about 4-5 meters  to above the fracture line. If it gives you the willies (as it did me…) climb up the back side of the dagger stemming between the rock and ice to place a screw in some disconnected smears that are attached to the rock wall behind the dagger. Continue up, wedging yourself between the ice and rock, then commit to pulling out around the curtain/dagger and climb steep 5+/6 ice to the top. Anchor is high on a tree a few meters off to the left.

Gear: A set of half ropes are recommended for the lead. Bring cams from .25” to 3” (A gold #2 Camalot –or equivalent- is KEY!). A few 10cm screws and long double runners to reduce rope drag. Note: The in-cut tombstone was frozen in at the time of the FA. I placed a cam and slung it with a long runner but wasn’t that psyched about it. If it’s not frozen, it could be a death block so give it  couple whacks and use your best judgment to assess it’s level of adhesion. Overall, the gear is not that confidence inspiring... The good news is that the best piece is the #2 Camalot up high, just before you traverse right and up to behind the dagger. The bad news is if you fall on your way to the ice (or the dagger breaks…) you are looking at a wrecking ball ride that would probably terminate against the ice ramp at the base, thus the R rating.

A note on the name: During the first attempt, I popped a tool off a tiny ledge and smashed myself in the face with my tool. This resulted in an injury much like when you get a “pinch flat” or “snake bite” from hitting a rock on a bike without enough air in the tires. Hammer head on tool= rock. My upper lip=  inner tube. Teeth= bike rim. You get the picture... Retreat and a trip to the clinic in Nipigon were in order. The next day, Matt and I went up and I managed not to whip this time. At the point just before swinging around to the front of the ice, while wedging myself between the rock and the dagger/curtain, I had both feet dangling in space while thrutching upwards. Matt said it looked like I was being eaten by a snake. Thus between the injury and the footless thrutching, Snake Bite.
She-Ra and the SNAG (OB right of Amy R)
Submitted by:James Loveridge
Climbed on:March 1st 2009
Report:She-Ra and the SNAG : M7, WI5 30M
FA: James Loveridge, Kendra Stritch
February 28th 2009

Late in the year some seasons, two daggers and a short ice climb form about 60M to the Right of Amy R (the ice climb is called The Wet Stuff – Brown/Buda March 08). This new mixed route takes on the right dagger. Depending on how far down/out the dagger has formed, the grade could vary a +/-. I would consider belaying from down around the corner to the right –or- from out on the big ramp off the small trees as if the dagger breaks, the belayer would be exposed belaying from anywhere else.

Start directly below the dagger and climb the snow/ice ramp (formed by the “dagger drool”) up and right to the corner. Follow this diagonal corner up and left past a small shelf. At the shelf, move right onto a face with a subtle S shaped crack. Ascend S crack to stand on an awkward perch below a headwall and just left of an overhanging alcove. Follow crack in headwall to gain a no hands rest stance under the upper overhanging alcove. Depending on how far down and out from the wall the ice as formed, either stem between the dagger and rock to get established on the solid ice (easier) –or-  Climb up and out the blocky overhang using sparse but good holds until you can snag the ice (harder). Cruiser grade 5 ice to the top. Anchor is on a tree just right of the top out.

Gear: A set of half ropes are recommended for the lead. Bring Cams from .5” to 4”, a couple knife-blades and a Lost-arrow plus 3-4 screws for the ice at the top. The gear is often awkward to place but quite good and there’s plenty of it. This is an extremely high quality and engaging route and at only 30M can be TR’d quite easily with a single rope.

NOTE: Two previous attempts had been made by Nick B. to snag the same dagger. However, his intended variation comes in from the far right on a v-groove/ramp and when completed, would only share a few meters of rock just before the ice. This right-hand ramp variation, although quite a bit less direct, looks fun and is still a worthy line to be had...
Reticulation (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:March 28, 2009
Report:Reticulation  M7-  40m  FA:  Dave Rone, Burt Lindquist

The first attempt of this route was a week earlier, when it had considerably more ice.  Unfortunately on that day we chose to climb Reflection Wall first, and what began as a cloudy day turned into intense sun, so the route began deteriorating fast.  I had made it up about 50' to a decent ledge when the decision was made to bail.  It turned out to be a good one because I was still untying from the rope when a big ice curtain from the top of the wall let loose, crashing onto the ledge I had vacated less than 5 minutes earlier!

A week later some small blobs of ice still remained, enough to make it a mixed climb anyway!  So we decided to give it another go.

Start at the base of a blocky right-leaning ramp system 50' left of Reflection Wall.  Climb up and right 40' to a difficult step (crux) left onto easier, lower-angle terrain.  Continue up following the path of least resistance, bypassing rotten ice and rock on the left near the top of the route.  Make an exciting traverse back left, and climb 20' to the belay/rappel anchor.

Overall rock quality is quite good, the tool placements are generally positive, and it takes gear well.  Here's what I used: Stoppers 1 each #1-4, 3-#5, 2-#6, 2-#7, 2-#9;  Camalots 1-3;  TCU's 2-#0, 1-#2, 1-#3;  Quadcams 1-#5, 1-#6.  Have some long runners for the finish.
Plum Dalliance (M6-, 35 m) (Cascade Falls Area, Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Nick Buda
Climbed on:February 21, 2009

FA: Nick Buda, Kyle Brooks

File this one in the category of "We all keep saying someone needs to go climb one of those blindingly obvious daggers that form up there every year" new routes.  This route climbs the leftmost of the daggers that form higher up on the cliff left of Cascade Falls every season, and was surprisingly very high quality, well-protected and definitely worthy of a repeat...probably best left for next season though as the sun is really affecting the ice and a few smaller daggers let go today as we were leaving.  Good rock with postively great drytool placements, only a couple loose stones here and there.  A nice addition there to be sure.
Approach as for Cascade Falls, then from the base head directly up the talus slope straight toward the climb (easy today with the sun/rain crust). 

The route climbs rolling WI2 ice (sun rotted snice now) for 10m to a massive ledge you camp on (plenty of loose rocks on the ledge).  Move to the left edge of the the daggers above and climb a really fun broken, overhanging corner (8-10m) with bomber pro to the upper roof before stepping over to the dagger.  A large foothold down and left, and interesting stemming makes passing the small roofs much easier than you might expect.  Follow cruiser WI2+ ice afterwards to the top.    3m of rock gets you to a big fat pine with a sling/biner rap station on it and a convenient belay ledge just below.

A standard mixed rack is plenty, I placed one pin (lost arrow just of the ledge), but it wasn't really necessary.  I used smaller stoppers and a full set of C3 camalots to the top, with a couple shorter screws and one red camalot for the last move at the top.  There are some smaller cracks to the left of the ice that accept smaller cams as well.  You could most likely rap the route with a single 60m rope.

A worthwile route, with potential for more in the area next season (some drilling may be needed).  There is a pure ice line further right, but unfortunately it's pretty much cooked for this season.  I'll definitely climb it again.

Razors In The Sandbox (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:6-Dec-2008
Report:Razors In The Sandbox
45m WI4+ M4
FA Wes Bender, Dave Rone
This was the first route to go. It is the right most line on the Chills ‘n’ Thrills Wall. It starts as a detached onion skin of ice that would barely hold a tool. Some M climbing gets you established on the ice where some small ice gear can be found. Climb the 85 degree ice plugging in what ever gear you can find. Then the ice starts to thin out until it is gone. Some protect able M climbing gets you to a ledge on the left. I was unable to locate any possible gear from there up the line to the top. I opted to exit slightly left and climb the face in hopes of finding some gear. With the gear I had with me I had 10 metres of unprotect able M climbing to the top. I bet if I had some cams I would have found more protection opportunities. It is very hard to communicate with your belayer from here. Radios, that work, would be helpful.
Rappel the route via a new anchor on a very large pine tree.
Leap Year M8- 50M (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Matt Giambrone
Climbed on:2/29/08
Report:50M M8-

FA: Matt Giambrone, Donnie Kolb, James Loveridge, and Guy Lacelle 2/29/2008
Located on the left hand wall of the large cleft that houses PG-13 which is to the climbers right of the route Getting Oriented.  Straightforward ice climbing leads to a large ice ledge at half height and the beginning of the mixed climbing from here follow the obvious seams up the overhanging wall to gain the upper ice.  The difficulty of the route will, I believe, vary from about M7 to M8+ with the volume of ice on the upper section.  On the first ascent I resorted to aid at the crux placing two bomber knife blades from aid before lowering, pulling the ropes and climbing the routes with the rock gear pre-placed.  The gear is quite good although it may be strenuous to place and I look forward to the completion of a true ground up ascent by some one who is either bolder or stronger.  A standard mixed rack including several pins and a handful of screws should do the job.  Descend from the anchors for PG-13 or Getting Oriented.

A special thanks to James for his boundless enthusiasm and encouragement on what to me was a significant route and to Donnie for his patience with the ropes.
Double Jeu (M4/5, WI3, 30m) (Mt.McKay - South Face)
Submitted by:Nick Buda
Climbed on:November 21, 2008
Report:Pat and I went to try and find somewhere sunny and out of that horrible wind on Friday, and our late start meant the south side routes on Mt. McKay were the only option.

We found some new ice smears between Butterball and First Things Second (both of which are in great shape).  All these smears flow from the top to a ledge a mid-height, and you could access them several ways.  We chose what we thought was the most aesthetic, a direct line through a small roof and up some easy rock to the ledge.  The line starts in a little alcove down and about 30m right of First Things Second.

The crux protects well with a small angle and red camalot, a light rock rack does the rest.  The 15m of ice after was a bit detached but plenty soft and protected well with a couple short/med screws.  Rap of a cordelette anchor on a collection of shrubs and small trees at the top, or better yet walk over and descend First Things Second.  Watch for some loose death blocks, easily avoided by traversing left after the roof.

I don't expect this route will hold up too well if we have a few warm sunny days.  Probably potential for one more here too, and should be easier.
Infidelity (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:3/15/08

Infidelity   M7-   45M    FA:  Dave Rone

This route is on the wall to the left of High Fidelity.  It starts on the ice that is Cristal Sliver and continues up the right-leaning crack.  It has a wide variety of movement and takes great gear all the way.  (1-4 Camalots, 2-5 TCUs, and a full set of stoppers).  Although I cleaned the worst of the loose stuff, be careful as you near the top.  Especially as the spring melt progresses.  Since I had to clean the gear on rappel, I used a rather small tree directly above the route.  There's a bigger, better tree back to the right.

By the way, the name is perfect . . . describes the feeling toward me at home as a result of climbing trips every other weekend since Thanksgiving!

Resolution (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:3/1/08

Resolution  M7/8  WI4,    FA: Dave Rone

This route is immediately to the left of Reflection Wall and climbs past 10 bolts to reach the curtain of ice up high.  It starts out pretty easy with the crux being a bulge in the wall as the good footholds disappear (between the 4th and 6th bolts) .  The final rock moves before the transition to ice are also exciting, involving a big step right to thin footholds, slots, and hooking on the steepening wall.  It's about 40 meters to the top of the route, 50 or so to the Reflection Wall rap anchor.

Thanks to Craig, Wes, and Eric for all their help!

Beer Run (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Jan. 05
Report:Beer Run, M6, 35m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen

To the rite of Alexanovia Gully on the first buttress is a thin smear that we cleaned and bolted. A fun route with great protection.
P1: climb thin ice, steming in the wide dihedral to a small roof. Pull the roof on two bomber torques and up the thick ice to the bolts.. rappel.
The Next Generation (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Jan. 05
Report:The Next Generation, WI 6, M9, 5.8 75m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen
Located on the large wall littered with cracks above the parking lot on the first buttress.
P1: CLimb the first section of April Showers (WI3) for 10m, traverse rite, clipping pins, into chimney and up a trickey mantle to bolted belay.
P2: The meat and potatoes of the route. Climb the steep wall past six bolts to the large pillar and then follow the steep ice to bolted belay. An awesome route. Attempted ground up but later retro bolted and cleaned on rappel.
House of Flying Daggers (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Dec. 05
Report:WOW.. a cave of pillars like this would have been climbed years ago out west.. but untouched here. Many possible routes exist for confident mixed climbers.
The House of Flying Daggers (Dagger Tavern) WI3+, 5.8 (M6??) 32m
FA: Brandon Pullan, Derrik Patola Jan 7/06
The most rite hand route.. Begin up thin vertical section to good stance and good rock pro on left hand side.. Climb the thin, loose corner to gain next ledge (committing) traverse left to corner (good cracks) technical tools and good jams (one �thank god� jug) and the next ledge.. Negotiate the thin ice and mantle bulge.. Belay off slung block.. Good cracks for #3 cam and nuts at belay.. Rap slung boulder with rings to ground.. Gear: 13�s, small nuts, small cams up to #3 camalot, spectre, pins would be helpful
Bushwackers Gully (N. Face Mt Rose??)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Jan. 06
Report:Bushwackers Gully, 65 m, WI 4, 5.8
FA: Noel Gingrich, Brandon Pullan

Tucked behind a large boulder is the beginning of this awesome route.
P1. Stem in large corner up steep pillar to bush filled steep ribbons of ice.
P2. squeeze between chockstone and ice into a narrow chimney, exit out on large face moves. Rap off slung tree.. two 60's should make it.
Mythophobia (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:April 2004
Report:Mythophobia (M5, WI4, 85m, 2p) FA: Nick Buda and Wes Bender, April 2004.
With the wierd conditions in OB (almost like early season with the freeze thaw), we decided to go check out some tantalizing pieces of ice on the so-called "wall of doom", the large wall of scrappy rock and daggers just before the bend in the highway near the powerstation when heading north. What we found was some fun and engaging mixed climbing that wasn't as bad or as scary as it's reputation (then again, it was all frozen together). We established a new 2-pitch route that basically follows the dropline in the middle (highest) part of the cliff. It is largely a chimney climb that involves about 30m of deceptively tenuous drytooling (turfy seams and lots of sketchy one-toothers with healthy spacing on the pro) to a pull around big chockstone. Then thin ice and excellent, well-protected drytooling through a roof/dagger (which snapped on the second) which gets you established on fun thin ice and eventually a good belay ledge of cedars (M5, 60m). The short second pitch goes about WI4- and follows a perfect thin ice ribbon and then some rambly terrain to the top (20m). A short rap from the top of a birch (cord and steel rings) brings you back to the cedar (more cord and a steel quicklink), from where you can rap to the ground. Mythophobia, M5 WI4, 80m. Bring a standard mixed rack (emphasize knifeblades, lost arrows and small to med cams), and be prepared to tie off one or two stubbies. There are some run out sections, but the crux drytooling section is very well protected (some loose rocks, be careful).
Photos from left to right
Mythophobia is the centre dark chimney with ice at the top, Wall of Doom, Orient Bay. Photo: Nick Buda
Nick Buda approaching the crux of pitch 1 of Mythophobia on the FA (M5, 60m). Photo: Wes Bender
Wes Bender starting pitch 2 (WI4, 20m) of Mythophobia on the FA, Orient Bay. Photo: Nick Buda
Shelob's Lair (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:March 2004
Report:(M8, R/X, 55m) FA: James Loveridge and Matt Giambrone, March 2004.
This climb is about 60m right of Ice Breakers. It is very different from anything I have climbed at Kama Bay. Definitely an Adventure Route.
Start in a, intimidating corner/chimney to the left of a large left-facing wall. There is an obvious, giant chock stone midway up the cleft. Climb up and in to a 1-2cm wide crack that takes you to the base of the giant chock stone. Go spelunking under/behind the chalkstone and up through the hole to come out on top of the chock stone. Set belay (bomber nut and baby angle) and bring up second. (The first pitch goes about M6, R. It's only 15m but the rope drag around the chock stone would be impossible.) From the belay stem your way out a steeply overhanging bombay chimney on very uninspiring gear. Awkwardly gain a thin smear just below a hanging dagger. At the top of the smear, look for 2 good cams on left. Climb dagger and grade 3 ice to trees. Recommended Gear: double ropes, medium/long runners, 2-3 short screws, cams to 4 (heavy on small ones), medium nuts, small selection of pins, a couple of Specters. This route is not for the timid but I still highly recommend it because of the truly unique nature of the climbing. All photos by Crista Bren.


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You don't see farmers as climbers. You see city people. Farmers don't need to climb.

 ~Yvon Chouinard