Alpine Club Of Canada

Thunder Bay Section

New Rock Routes



Read This First!

CAUTION! Scrambling, technical rock, ice and mixed climbing and mountaineering activities are, by their very nature, potentially hazardous activities. You could be severely injured or killed while participating in them. The information presented in these conditions and trip reports is intended to supplement, NOT replace, sound judgement and experience. The accuracy or truth of any information presented here cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. Conditions in a given area or on a particular climb may (and likely will) vary from day to day or even hour to hour. Ice and mixed climbs in particular may vary considerably in safety, stability and overall condition over a short period of time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information presented here to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. This must not be your only source of information on any given subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors, contributors and The Alpine Club of Canada from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.

These conditions reports are limited to climbs in the Thunder Bay region, and to areas west of and including Thunder Bay, Orient Bay, Kama Hills and Ice Station Superior. All folks posting conditions are required to log in with a valid email address and password. As well, keep your postings clean and limited to conditions reports - this is not intended as a forum for discussion. Any postings containing foul language, erroneous information, false reports, slander, spam or other malicious content will be edited or removed at the discretion of the webmaster. As a rule the ACC Thunder Bay Section does not promote climbing without protective gear such as helmets or ropes. Any posts that suggest soloing or have photos of climbers without protective gear will be edited or removed. Censorship is definitely NOT cool, unfortunately these are our rules.

That said, get out there and start climbing!

If you want a location on any of the routes listed you may find them in the Community Maps


Add New Rock Route

The Return of Dr. Tongue (Claghorn - OB Wall)
Submitted by:Peter Drzymala
Climbed on:Oct. 11, 2015
Report:

FA:  Peter Drzymala and Marla Balzer

5.12b; 13 bolts plus anchor hangers for topping; 33m

5 metres left of "Smash That Cherry"

 

Sustained Technical Climbing on solid rock face and well protected in a beautiful wilderness setting. Bring your technical back of tricks.  

Classic!!

 

 
Screeching Banshee 5.10+ sports (Pass Lake, between Staircase and Dog wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:Fall 2015
Report:

 Screeching Banshee 10+ is now a bolted sport line.

See picture on previous postings. 

During cleaning and figuring proper bolts, I found better holds and realized route not a 5.11 but a 5.10.

Pat

 
Courage Highway - 5.11 mixed Pro to 1" (Mt. Olympus - Orietn Bay)
Submitted by:Steve Charlton
Climbed on:October 4th, 2015. S. Cha
Report:Located between Passage to Valhalla and Mt. Olypmus. Layback up a nice corner crack until its possible to step out and clip the first bolt. Climb easier ground up and to the right and make a hard traverse move. Continue straight up and fight the pump to the anchor. 25m, Trad start and 7 bolts to finish. Classic climbing and a good warm up for the harder climbs at Mt. Olympus. Have fun, enjoy!
 
Self Obsessed and Sexy & 69 Rolls (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:Sept 2015
Report:

 Old TR routes now new sport climbs at Pass Lake....

Self Osessed and sexy 5.8, chains on glue-in anchor.  (left of TV dinners)

69 Rolls 5.9+?  on red rooster wall just R of 69 Rolls graffiti.....

 

Enjoy!

Pat

 
Péter L'Feu, 5.11 c/d, Sport, 25m (Lost Fall Big Thunder Wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:July 2015
Report:

Péter L’Feu 5.11c/d  Sport 25m  is fun face and roofs sport climb. Various interesting face movement with some challenging side pulls and lay back hoping not to barn door, also desperate roof moves on small hold with barely any feet. If it wasn't for several decent rests it would definitly be a 5.12. Milks those rests, this is not a short PL or SH route... (1st pitch green line on picture) FA: Socrate Badeau July 2014 TR  

FFA: Patrick Martel , Kyle Brooks and Sean Cameron July 2015
 
Smash That Cherry Twist (5.10a, 26m, 10bolts) (Claghorn - Outward Bound Area)
Submitted by:Peter Drzymala
Climbed on:July 20, 2015
Report:
FA: Peter Drzymala and Marla Balzer
Climb the prominent arete as seen from start of boulder field trail to Outward Bound area.  Stay to right of arete for the most part. Climb to face of and top of pillar finishing up and over short head wall.  Definitely 3 stars out of 3.
 N48.92405 W88.56262
 
Have improved anchors at top of most climbs. 
 
Stay tuned for more to come at Outward Bound

 

 
Carpe Diem 5.10d Sports (Lost Fall Big Thunder Wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:Summer 2015
Report:

 

Carpe Diem, 5.10d Sports about 20m (Yellow line) (FFA P. Martel & K. Shorthouse summer 2015)

 New awesome sport route climbing along the arête on the R side of BBS  large L facing black dihedral. Good variety of smeary feet, heel hooks, crimps and balance moves and a dead point on the arete...that keeps the climber challenged until reaching the anchor.  This will be an instant classic....

 
Breakfast Special 11- & Non Sequitur 10-, trad PG (Lost Fall Big Thunder Wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:Summer 2015
Report:

Breakfast Special. (all Below FFA on lead, Patrick Martel & Kevin Shorthouse Summer 2015) (RED line)

Pitch 1, 5.10- PG 22m (mix 3 bolts)

Start In Large L facing black dihedral on R on Cliff. Climb stemming on small hold and flaring corner hold with thin seem to protect although One spot for a Cam #3-3.5. Traverse Just before roof on thin face to exit R under Roof  past Carpe Diem anchor “original Breakfast Special anchor to a Rap anchor on good stance, passing trough a burly move on a hand jam.

 Pitch 2, 5.11- Trad PG about 18m

Follow a variable with crack system slightly obliquely toward a small R facing dihedral meeting a roof with a small with a finger crack system above, about 1m R of dihedral.  Burly & reachy move to clear roof (crux) on the finger crack. Above roof cling for your life and follow double finger Crack system slightly angling to L, on progressively improving holds to 2nd Rap anchor.

 Pitch 3, 5.9+ or 10- Trad PG about 20m

From anchor move R to a thin crack system aiming strait to a large L facing Yellow dihedral going up to a large roof. ( L side of Myopic Adventure’s pillar) Go up in dihedral up to roof than Move R to exit below roof on R with feet above 50m of emptiness. Follow finger and hand crack in line with below yellow dihedral line just above the roof, up to a very large ledge with vegetation. Use Anchor to Rap down from here....

 {This Climb has been work on in many steps.... Brad History version of Brad’s "Breakfast Special": I ate my breakfast hanging in my bosun chair after drilling the first pitch anchors.  The solo aid ascent of the first pitch was June 15, 2013.  The solo aid ascent of the second pitch was June 29, 2013.  The solo aid ascent of the third pitch was August 4th, 2014.  The first pitch went free on top rope on July 7,2013 (Brad Hughson and Duncan Hutchison).  The second pitch went free (up to the roof) on top rope July 7, 2013.  An alternate start (Non Sequitur) around to the right following the crack system from the base of the tree all the way to the second pitch anchors was mostly freed on top rope on July 13, 2014.  (Brad Hughson, Duncan Hutchison and Kyle Brooks)

Patrick Martel has been cleaning BT Wall worked his way to this line in spring 2015. A Crowbar, scrapers and steel brushes got rid of several large loose flake and extensive amount of lichen. There is still some lichen under large roof of 3rd pitch and one large mobile wedge hinged block just below 1st anchor that no amount of yanking with a crowbar will yank free… actually had to chisel it out...}

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Alternate start- Variation to Brad's Breakfast Special...

 Non Sequitur,  5.10- PG about 22m (Green line) (FFA Lead... P. Martel & K. Shorthouse summer 2015)

This is even a better and more logical start for the 3 pitches of Brad's Breakfast Special. Start on crack hidden R in an alcove behind large pine and cedar. Follow crack system angling toward the L that connects to upper pitches by an awkward step L to rap anchor at about 20m up. This alternate start (Non Sequitur) around to the right following the crack system from the base of the tree all the way to the second pitch anchors was mostly freed on top rope on July 13, 2014.  (Brad Hughson, Duncan Hutchison and Kyle Brooks) (This pitch and possibly 2 pitches above may also have been climbed years ago by Derrik Patola & Shaun Robinson, still needs to be confirmed...)

 
Vertical Delight 3 pitches, P1:10+, P2:11+,P3:8 (Lost Fall Big Thunder Wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:Fall 2014-> summer2015
Report:

Vertical Delight 5.11+, 3 pitches Trad (Red)

This a  very nice route cleaned and bolted in summer and fall 2014. After prepping; a long series of multiple climb attempts, with multiples partners, were thwarted at mid-cliff by streak of  various issues, mostly weather. The 3rd pitch was finally climbed completed in July 2015, after koaxing my spouse to accept climbing on a still wet 1st pitch, time pressed, because I wanted to finally complete this line. (First pitch really needs time to dry after heavy rain.) Well worth the wait.

P1 5.10+ Trad  (26m) 2 bolts. Start in a shale alcove in large R facing dihedral, L facing corner with a short hand crack. There is a bolts to stick clip to protect short constantly changing shale section. Once jamming in hand crack step around on R then go up  short face aiming for R facing dihedral. Fantastic aerial step at upper roof crack when stepping around L to exit 1st pitch to a huge ledge with chain anchor.  (Suggest in addition of your standard rack;  small ball-nut, Camalot #3-#3.5 and two #1) FFA: Patrick Martel & Stephanie Marler Fall 2014 

·         P2 5.11+ Mixt protection (22m). From anchor Step around R on bulged, then follow flakes and thin seams, and bolts in middle delicate crimpy face aiming toward center of a giant chin. Exit L on bolts before middle zigzag wide crack to a chain anchor above chimney-gully.  (FFA Patrick Martel & Aric Fishman June 2015)

 P3 P3 5.8 Trad  13m continue obvious crack on right above 2nd anchor to a top 3rd Anchor on summit next to visible tree from 2nd anchor. (FFA: Patrick Martel & Stephanie Marler summer 2015)

 
Rainmaker (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Dallas Markall
Climbed on:July 06/2015
Report:

New climb at Silver Harbour immediately right of Nasty Girls. Rainmaker is a 5.7 sport climb. equiped with 5 bolts and rap anchors. Two variations at the top. Leave out the big ledges and stick to the nice side pulls to make things a bit spicyer.  

 
Snake Bite 5.9 - Cheeseburger 5.5- I Lichen It 5.9 (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:June 20, 2015
Report:

Head to the far right and check out the 3 fun new sport routes to the left of Raspberry Belay and right of Nasty Girls.

Snake Bite – 5.9, 12m, 4 bolts + rap anchor – leftmost of the 3 routes, solve the start to gain the big holds and then work your way back and forth up the dihedral through fun moves. Enjoy the final sequence at the top heading up and right after the last bolt and clipping the anchor on your left.

F.A: Aric Fishman

F.F.A: Aric Fishman, Andy Noga, Joseph Anawati

 

Cheeseburger – 5.5, 12m, 4 bolts + rap anchor – start on the ledge and go up and left to the second bolt. Follow the easiest line up and right all the way to the top using steps and ledges along the way, a great beginners lead!

F.A & F.F.A: Aric Fishman, Victoria Wilen

 

I Lichen It – 5.9, 12m, 4 bolts + rap anchor – grab the really sweet feature with really cool texture and climb it up to the crux moves, get through it and you’re home free to the top! Shares anchor with Cheeseburger.

F.A: Aric Fishman

F.F.A: Aric Fishman, Andy Noga, Paul Desaulniers

These 3 routes took a large amount of rock brushing and block droping, but they are now good to go and really fun new additions to that part of the crag! Also makes for a really nice way to get to the top of the cliff if you want to set up Nasty Girls, Sunset Strawberries, Power of the Claw, etc on top-rope. As with any new route, please be cautious and always wear a helmet just in case the climber takes off any stray pebbles or rocks. *there is a large block near the top of 'Snake Bite' that looks quite precarious but even with all the reefing and crowbaring I did, I still could not dislodge it.

p.s. I may or may not be removing the hangers & pulling out the bolts from Snake Bite..still debating it.. In trying to make the climb super safe for people, I went back and did some even more heavy duty rock prying and cleaning of that route after my initial cleaning/bolting day. In that process I revealed some spots close to 3 out of the 4 bolts that would accept some booomber trad gear! Bah! Everyone who has climbed it so far has told me that it’s really fun as a sport route and prob wouldn’t get climbed much or at all if I pulled all the bolts so I should just leave it as is. I personally hate seeing bolts next to cracks…hate it..but this route miiight be better off just left as a bolted line..Go try it as a sport line and tell me what ya think! 

 
3 new sports routes (Pass Lake new wall, between Staircase and Dog wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:May 2015
Report:

 

-Galling Gravity 5.11

-Gonna be late for the Juice Bar 5.8 

-Guilty by Association 5.8-9

 

Follow blue flagging trail

 
Spiritually Invested - 5.10+ (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:July 2014
Report:

Getting There: This climb can be found directly to the left of Black Stallion Arete. 

Route Description: There are 2 fun variations.

Var 1: 

Start  directly beneath the first bolt and head straight up (easier variation using footholds on the 'black stallion arete' wall). Slightly overhung climbing on great holds gets you to a sweet crux sequence. Continue up on slightly big reaches through big holds to gain the big ledge. Take a quick breather here, the rest is short but kind of bouldery. There is an optional bomber gear placement to protect the final move. If not placing gear, make sure belayer does not have any extra slack out. 

6 bolts + 1 gear placement + anchors

Var 2:

Climb straight up the slightly overhung wall. After clipping the 4th bolt (with long draw), instead of going up on to the ledge, head right on to Black Stallion Arete and continue up for a nice pumpy finish!

7 bolts + anchors

Descent:

Rappel off the 2 bolt anchors at the top of Spiritually Invested, or Black Stallion depending on the variation you choose. 

F.A: Aric Fishman (July 2014)

F.F.A: Aric Fishman - lead rope solo (July 2014)

 
Cosa Nostra Direct. (Lost Fall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:July 2014
Report:

 

5.10+ 25m. Trad PG

Starts just right of a right facing dihedral 5-7m right and up hill of copper breakfast in a wide flaring double crack system under a roof leading to Cosa Nostra ledge. Move up to where cracks fuse into single wide crack with wedge blocks. When crack disappears face climb left up to Cosa Nostra ledge.  Complete top of route as per Cosa Nostra, but all as a single pitch. Go up left facing dihedral and traverse left Hand jamming under roof. Exit up vertical crack at left end of roof to a beautiful bolted rap anchor installed by someone else.... 

Fun sustained route. Seems natural start for Cosa Nostra distinct from Copper Breakfast.  

I suggest long double slings to minimize drag at change of directions, and a BD Camelot #4 useful to protect start.

FA Socrate Badeau & Patrick Martel

FFA Patrick Martel & Will Gregorash

 
Vertige 12-, Trepidation 11+, Péter l'Feu 12- (Lost Fall, Big Thunder Wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:July 2014
Report:

Trepidation 2 pitches 55m (Yellow)

P1 5.11b/c 25 m mix protection (5 bolts) to bolted rap anchor. Start on 5.10 trad until reaching the roo( (sport afterwards), keep moving up and left to reach upper roof you can’t avoid, turn and step right, crimping your last few meters up with only void under your feet.

·      P2 5.9+, 10- 30m (trad PG ) Starting in L facing Dihedral left of anchor, to beak shape roof. Protect under roof and step right over bulge. Continue dihedral to common rap anchor. (ABSOLUTLY NEED 60m rope to rap off)

The route was climbed all way to the top. The top exit is full of looser rocks that could be dislodged by foot or rope. We therefore opted to clean most of it and put a rap anchor about 10m short of top to avoid this significant risk of accidental rock fall.

·      FFA Patrick Martel & Socrate Badeau July 2014


Vertige 2 pitches 55m (Red)

 

·      P1 5.12- 25 m mix protection (6 bolts to bolted rap anchor. Shared start with trepidation starting on 5.10 trad until reaching the roof (sport afterwards), moving up and left through second set of roof  in inverted staircase. After clip 2nd Right hand bolt start moving R on initially good hand hold and keep going for a stroll around the corner above the void. When you cannot go right anymore, just go up through the last roof (crux). (Suggest long sports quickdraws for last 3 clips below last roof to minimize drag)

FFA Socrate Badeau & Patrick Martel July 2014

 

·      P2 5.12 trad, goes up dihedral R of anchor angling toward a large roof with a crack through it.  (took long time to clean, currently a CLOSED project)

FA: TR Socrate Badeau July 2014 

 

Péter l’Feu 5.12 TR on fun face, ( TR from Vertige and Trepidation P1 anchor) (Green)

FA: July 2014 Socrate Badeau 


 
Gambit 9+ Trad, and 4 new TR (Pass Lake new wall, between Staircase and Dog wall)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:\"Gambit\" trad 06-2014,
Report:

 New cleaned Wall at Pass Lake,

Clean with Wayne Humphrey in fall 2013.  It's situated mid way bewtween Staircase Wall and Dog Wall. 

All lines currently have bolted anchor accessible from top. Access via a gully 50m Left when facing the wall.

Lines from Left to Right..... (all TR will be bolted full sports routes by the fall...)

-Gambit 5.9+, 5.10"? Trad, good pro.

-Galling Gravity TR 5.11

-Gonna be late for the Juice Bar 5.8 TR

-Guilty by Association 5.8 TR

-Screeching Banshee 5.10+ TR

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Chanteclair 8, Ugly Duckling 8, Barnyard Bash 8 (No Man's Land)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:2010 TR, June 2014 lead s
Report:

All 3 new sport lines are all bolted with new 2 bolts sports Anchor and also TR friendly bolted anchors that we installed a few years ago.

"Chanteclair 5.8" and "Ugly Duckling 5.8" are Left of   "Saddle Up".

Barnyard Bash 5.8" is in middle of face with grafiti 69 Rolls on it, Left side  of overhang Wall/ No mans Land are before you go up trail going to top.

Its Left of Dyno Mo and left of a recently cleaned short easy TR Speckle Hen 5.4-5.5.

Thanks to Wayne Humphrey for all his help cleaning thoses with me....

 

 

 
Hanging Garden 10+, 28 and clear 5.8 (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:Oct 15 2013
Report:

 Those are sports routes with anchors you can rap off.

Hanging Garden 10+ is a new line directly Right of Jesus hairdo, goes through the roof. I suggest you use a long QuickDraw under roof. I'm not decided on the way I bolted the roof, I may have put one bolt too much time will tell.

28 and clear has now two possible exits. The classic guidebook 5.8 line goes above and around bulge a the right end of the roof. I also equipped a direct exit 5.10 line going straight up from the same start. It goes through a series of small overhangs with undercling holds. Be forewarned there is a very large wedge flake/block on this route.  This is an established line for a long time, I therefore opted not to rip that block out which would modify the route significantly. If there is popular concern  someone can either rip it out with a crowbar or I can do it. ( I did try to rip it out with a crowbar....it's more solid than I first thought it was!)

Cheers!

Patrick

 
Birds of Prey – 5.11c mixed - 25 meters (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:October 14, 2013
Report:

Getting there:

Drive in to Crescent Lake and hike along the North side of the lake staying relatively close to the water (follow the rock cairns). Once at the end of the lake look for a trail marked by pink flagging tape to your right and uphill through the forest. Take this trail uphill until you get to a very large fallen down birch tree. Climb over the tree and continue up the talus to get to this wall. Use the photos to help identify the route. The climb begins a few meters left of the gully. From the base you can see 5 bolts that lead up to the wide right facing crack system leading to a ledge.

Route Description:

Moderate climbing right off the deck quickly leads to an undercling crux at the second bolt. Think, pull, and mantle your way through the large features while trying to beat the pump to the last bolt. Take a rest on a good stance before heading left to the wide crack. Bring a large cam for this section or be prepared to run it out to the bomber hand sized protection above and to the ledge. Take the beautiful finger crack left of the anchor till you can traverse right to the corner placing small gear. Continue up to the top ledge with anchors.

2 pitch variation: Belay your partner up from the anchors found at the large half way ledge. Move to the right side of the ledge and climb up the corner crack which meets up with the finger crack finish.  

Descent: Rappel back down the route.

Gear: 60m rope, 5 bolts, standard rack is sufficient (the left finger crack variation from the ledge could use doubles in small finger sizes). A very large cam would protect the wide crack section, or run it out to the hands sized gear).

F.A. Aric Fishman, Kyle Norman (October 2012)

F.F.A. Martin Dube, Aric Fishman (October 2013)

 
The Portal - 5.12c (Mt. Godfrey - Totem Pole Area)
Submitted by:Mitch Marostica
Climbed on:September, 2013
Report:

Getting There: Use the same approach for Echoes of the Totem.

Description: The route follows the arete just left of Echoes. Upon reaching the big ledge, start off by laybacking the left corner only to gain the bolt. From there, traverse right to the arete and sack up for a test piece. This line offers technical and pumpy climbing with nice exposure. 9 bolts + 2 bolt anchor with rappel on face.

FA: Mitch Marostica, Aric Fishman (September, 2013)

FFA: Zach Watson, Mitch Marostica (October, 2013)

 
Angimima (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:sept 2013
Report:

Line immediate right of "Chinese water torture" is now bolted sport route.

Two exits, Left is 5.9 and direct right 5.10 (as per current guidebook)

Patrick

 
Legends of Animikee - 5.11b - 30 meters *** (Mt.Godfrey (Totem Pole Area))
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:September 13, 2013
Report:

Getting There: Same approach as for Echoes of the Totem. This super fun sport climb is located on the overhanging wall just left of Echoes of Totem, and right of Lost Traditions.

The climb begins with a short scramble up on stacked boulders to the first bolt located at the right facing corner. Continue up the corner and on to the ledge then walk right to locate the next clip. A cruxy first clip off the ledge gets you to the fun warm up slab section (5.9) and up to the headwall. Rest, Breath, and Enjoy the view. This next half is the gem of the whole climb. A series of technical moves leads up the fun, overhanging headwall.  Crimp out of the horizontal, cut loose and bolt to the top (5.11b).

Gear: 60 meter rope, 12 bolts + 2 sport anchors.

F.A: Unknown? 

F.F.A: Aric Fishman & Martin Dube

 
Dog and Bone - 5.11b (Silver Harbour (Silverline Wall))
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:August 3, 2013
Report:

Located to the right  and around the corner of Mother Jugs and Speed. Climb on nice ledges to the second bolt and prepare for a bouldery sequence that will have you slapping your way to the top.

3 bolts + 2 anchor bolts on face

F.A: Mitch Marostica, Aric Fishman

F.F.A: Mitch Marostica, Aric Fishman

 
Back Home - 5.10a - 10 meters (Silver Harbour (Sunnyside Wall))
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:August 3, 2013
Report:

This newly bolted sport line is located just to the right of Rec'er Revisited. Work your way up the buttress using nice flat edges and enjoy the sequence at the top! 4 bolts + a 2 bolt rappel anchor on the face. 

F.F.A: Aric Fishman

 
Yoga Blocks (5.10+ / 30m / trad) (Lost Falls)
Submitted by:Kevin Shorthouse
Climbed on:August 18, 2013
Report:

Located at Lost Fall and tucked between Deceptacon and Too Tall for Webster. Work straight up the face moving between small to medium face holds and large, fist-sized horizontal cracks (20m). These horizontal cracks make great rest spots and take decent gear. Finish by joining onto the Deceptacon crack directly above (10m). Although this route is very close in proximity to the Deceptacon and Too Tall for Webster, it climbs very differently and has a unique flow. Enjoy!

F.A.?? Kevin Shorthouse, Jerome Desroches
F.F.A. Kevin Shorthouse, Spence Freeman

Note: I’ve been to Lost Falls dozens of times but had never heard of anyone going straight up the face between Deceptacon and Too Tall for Webster. To my knowledge this climb doesn’t have a FFA, but if it does please let me know.

Cheers!

 

 
Praying Mantle 9 & Ode to Arapiles 11b (Pass Lake, chip off the old block)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:summer 2012
Report:

 These are not really new routes.

But they are now full sports,  ground up lines since end of last summer....

 
Sweat Shop - 10c/d Sports (Pass Lake, Right of Book of Dreams.)
Submitted by:Patrick Martel
Climbed on:Sept 2007
Report:

Put up By Wayne Humphrey and Patrick Martel on some really hot fall days. There is a sport climbing ankor good top rope ankor on top.

 
Praying Mantis - 5.10b - 50m (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:October 14 2012
Report:

Getting there: Drive in to Crescent Lake and hike along the North (right) side of the lake staying relatively close to the water (follow the rock cairns, they will take you the easiest way). Once at the end of the lake look for a trail marked by pink flagging tape to your right and uphill through the forest. Take this trail uphill until you get to a very large fallen down birch tree. Climb over the tree and continue straight up the talus to get to this wall. The route climbs the obvious wide looking crack that splits the left side of this wall. Use the photos to help identify the route.

Pitch 1: 30m 5.10b This marvelous climb begins at the base of the crack and uses a variety of bomber jams to make your way up. It is relatively easy climbing until the offwidth section at the top. Negotiate through this crux and you’re home free! Belay from a large ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: 20m 5.8 If the top is your goal, simply continue straight up following the crack system up to another ledge. Climb up passing a series of smaller ledges to reach a large ledge with a pine tree. There is a rappel anchor on the tree. This pitch is not the greatest quality due to the multiple ledge systems.

Gear: 60m rope, standard rack is sufficient but mostly takes camalot 1-4 so bring multiples of these sizes. A short offwidth section at the top protects with a #5, or be ready to run it out.

F.A. Aric Fishman

F.F.A. Martin Dube

 
Jammin n' Cammin - 5.11b or 5.10c/A0 (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:November 25 2011
Report:

Getting there: Drive in to Crescent Lake and hike along the North (right) side of the lake staying relatively close to the water (follow the rock cairns, they will take you the easiest way). Once at the end of the lake look for a trail marked by pink flagging tape to your right and uphill through the forest. Take this trail uphill until you get to a very large fallen down birch tree. Climb over the birch and then immediately keep your eyes open for another flagged trail that forks to the right. This trail leads to the base of the climb. Use the photos to help identify the route. Jammin n’ Cammin is located just 15 meters past ‘Everything Goes Brown-5.10b’. Enjoy!

Pitch 1: 25m - 5.11b or 5.10c/A0 Start to the left in an open book corner, climb up about 10 feet before working your way to the right on good edges to gain the crack system. Climb straight up to the roof crack and then continue straight through and up till you reach a horizontal crack. Once here, follow the horizontal break to the right and then do some tricky moves (5.11b or A0) to gain access to the next crack. Continue straight up this to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: 25m - 5.10b Take the bomber hand crack straight up and continue on widening hands/fists in a left facing corner. Continue straight up the offwidth crack to the giant ledge and belay from there.

Gear: 60m rope, standard rack, doubles of #0.3-#1 camalots are useful for pitch 1 (take #00-#0.3 if planning on aiding through crux). Doubles or triples of #2-#4 for pitch 2. A #5 would be really nice to have for the offwidth section at the top. Rappel from the pine tree to get to the bolted anchor below and then to the ground.

F.A. Aric Fishman and Mathew Houston

 
Pocket Pool (5.10b) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Terry Prodanyk
Climbed on:??
Report:(I'm not claiming the FA on this route but I did spend a fair amount of time cleaning it up to an acceptable level and I am proposing a name for it.   
I've climbed this (previously dirty) route a few times over the past years but there seems to be no formal documentation as to its name or who may have done the FA. I suspect the top was never climbed given the amount of lichen I encountered while cleaning it.
If anyone has any credible information or history on this route, I'd be happy to add that information to this description.)

Climb up the ledges between Blockbuster and Mashed Potatoes to the large roof. Use the perfect hand pocket at the back of the roof to work your feet up the wall and reach for the edges on the face. Pull through the roof to the large ledge then carefully finish the climb up to the right towards the arete of Blockbuster. 

Watch for some large loose rocks at the top - still needs to be cleaned completely.

Anchors in place for TR.

 
 
Fistin'n Twistin (5.10a) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Terry Prodanyk
Climbed on:June 2012
Report:Start the steppy bottom of the large crack behind the birch tree between Arachnophobia (right of the classic Stairmaster) and Positively Fourth Street. After the second bolt, the climb gets interesting and earns its name and grade. Pull through with some power-fist-jambs, knee-bars, twists and stems to the big ledge. Solid hand edges will see you through to easily clip the third and fourth bolts. When topping out, use hidden right-pull behind the rounded top boulder.
Rap rings on the top anchors.
Note: if setting up a TR, protect the anchor material for abrasion over the rounded bulge.

FFA: Terry Prodanyk
 
La Cosa Nostra 5.10+ (Lost Falls)
Submitted by:Brad Hughson
Climbed on:June 21, 2012
Report:

From the belay after the first pitch of Coppers Breakfast: Start climbing the second pitch as you would normally, then start trending to the right around onto another shallow ledge directly underneath the roof crack. A fist/hand size crack splits the corner right up to the roof. Gear to #4 for the corner crack, and a #3 protects the roof nicely. Remember to sling it nice and long. Bomber fist jams through the roof and over up the lip. Get your feet up high and stab for the big pocket. Lock off and protect the tight hands crack above with a #0.75. Pull up through the tight hands and top out on the ledge. Belay/rappel off the fixed anchors with rap rings.

Enjoy!

F.A.: Shaun Robinson and Derrik Patola exiting to the left after the roof

F.A. and F.F.A.: Brad Hughson, Jeff Gilpin and Will Gregorash June 2012

 
Of Monsters and Men 5.9+ (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:Brad Hughson
Climbed on:April 27th, 2012
Report:

From Crescent Lake follow the road along the left side of the lake until you are walking parallel with the large wall on your left. Hike in through the bush to the base of the wall. It's a good idea to wear rubber boots as it is pretty swampy for a short period. Hike up to the base of the shale band below the route as seen in the picture. Carefully make your way up the shale to the small cutout that acts as a perfect shelter for the belayer. From here climb around the large dead tree in the crack and them jam your way through the stellar hand crack. A few short sections of finger crack make it interesting. Great gear, great fun, still a little dirty though. Belay/Rappel from the large boulder at the top, or top it out through the trees and rappel from the slung tree. Two 60m ropes will get you back the the bottom of the shale band, however pulling the rope can be difficult.

 F.F.A. Ground up Onsite, Brad Hughson and Will Gregorash

Have Fun!!

 
Rollin' Towards the Sky 5.10- 2p (Mount Godfrey)
Submitted by:Frederic Giroux
Climbed on:March 10, 2012
Report:Location: Mount Godfrey. Equal distance Between White Lightning and Tamarack. Approach from the White Lightning trail, and start traversing the cliff towards the left. Traverse until you see a weakness in the shale band (directly under the climb). The approach is not to be taken lightly, it has a committing 4th class scramble section. Description: The climb ascend the right crack of a two crack system, which is connected by a distinct 4-5 foot roof in the middle of the cliff Pitch 1: the first pitch starts off in a left-facing corner unil you reach a roof. negotiate the roof and pull onto the face on good hand jams until you reach the ledge. Belay from here. 25m, 5.10- Pitch 2: From the ledge, continue up the big crack until you reach a ledge where you can go left. Once on the ledge start climbing the beautiful finger/hand crack until you reach the top. F.A.(ground-up, on-sight) Fred Giroux & Jon Hollway Note: single rack with doubles of #1 to #4. The first belay takes big gear! This route is of very fun with high quality rock. beware of the approach
 
Loose Plans 5.9+ 3p (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:Frederic Giroux
Climbed on:March 14, 2012
Report:Location: This climb is situated at Crescent Lake which is the south side of Mount Rose. Walk along the north side of the lake until you reach the boulder field (after the lake, and continue until the shale band stops. Refer to pictures for more details. Description: Pitch 1: this pitch is characterized by a series a broken cracks trending towards the left. Once you arrive underneath suspect blocks, climb straight up into the steep crack, avoiding the scary loose stuff on the right. Continue up this crack system until it is possible to reach a ledge about midway up the cliff. Make an anchor (be creative)and belay from here. 25m, 5.9+ Pitch 2: This pitch is basically just a relocation of the belay. There would be way too much rope drag otherwise. Climb from the first belay over to the big blocs on the upper right, and then down climb a move to find yourself on a small ledge with great overhead protection from rock fall, and great gear. Belay from here. 10m (horizontally), 5.5 Pitch 3: From the belay, down climb a few move to reach and start heading towards the right. Make sure your second is protected from the pendulum fall (it has potential for a big one). Once you reach the main corner system, ascend this until your at the top of the cliff. beware of loose rocks. 25m, 5.8 F.A. (ground-up, on-sight) Fred Giroux & Joey Miller Note: Double rack to #2, 2 ropes (for rappel). There are no bolted anchors/rap stations. Have a good adventure!
 
Passage to Valhalla (Mt. Olympus-Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Steve Charlton
Climbed on:Sept. 17th
Report:

First Ascent completed of this route on Saturday Sept 17th. Jody Bernst and I completed the routeto the summit. Pitch#1 overhanging crack 5.11+/5.12-, 20 m - Pitch #2  discountinuous hand and finger crack with 3 bolts 5.11 A0, 20m - Pitch#3 face climbing on beautiful rock to the summit bolts 5.11 A0, 40m.  Varied and steep climbing with three pitches of superb rock finishing on the nose of the cliff with outstanding position.  Open for redpoint FFA. Pitch#1 has been redpointed.

 

 

 
Lost Keys 5.9+ (60m) (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:September 7, 2011
Report:

Getting There:
Head to Mt. Godfrey, but instead of taking the right fork on the small dirt road, go left until you get to a lake, this is Crescent Lake. To get to this climb, hike along the North (right) side of the lake, staying relatively close to the water.  At the end of the lake, head up and right into the boulder field towards the cliff. Use the picture above to identify the climb.

Route Description:
Look for a right facing corner crack/dihedral system and start climbing up it! Continue up until you are able to move right, this time to a left facing dihedral utilizing the right and left face where possible. Get creative with your gear and climb carefully passing a very small tree until you get to a very small ledge below and offwidth/chimney section. It is possible to belay your 2nd up from here using an awesome gear anchor, or you can continue up if you're feeling good. (P1: 31m)

Continue climbing up using the many cracks on the left face working your way up to the offwidth/chimney section. If you don't have a number 5 camalot or don't feel like bringing it, there is a smaller hidden crack more to the left for great gear placements about half way up the offwidth crack. Work your way up towards another small tree just below a small roof. Using the chockstone/bomber hand crack and jugs, pull up and over the roof and continue climbing on easier ground. You are going to want to head up and left towards a large ledge with a medium sized pine tree where again you can choose to either bring up your 2nd, or continue climbing. (If you are doing this climb in 1 long pitch, this is where you get some pretty bad rope drag happening.) 

Either rappel from this pine tree back to the ground (2- 60m ropes), or continue up heading slightly right past a small boulder problem and a scramble to the very top. There are many trees that you can belay with from up there. (P2: 30m)

To descend:

Scramble/rappel back down to the medium sized pine tree on the large ledge before the last boulder problem and rappel using 2 - 60m ropes.

Wicked fun climb with some adventure mixed in.

Gear:

A set of stoppers, double set of cams up to #2.5 Camalot, optional #3, #4, #5 Camalot (not very many places to put these sizes, but they exist (only reason to bring a #5 is to protect the offwidth crack section, however other placements are readily available to the creative climber)

Note: There are currently no rappel anchors established, so if you're looking for that, you won't find it; simply rappel off the tree. Rappel anchor to come soon on the pine tree. 


F.A : Aric Fishman and Jonathan Hollway

F.F.A: Aric Fishman

 
Three Seconds Taller (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Courtney Rogalla
Climbed on:July 18, 2011
Report:In between Wit of a Ninja and Orange Crush. Climb the thin seam through side-pulls and crimps. Fun but difficult climbing. Only natural anchors at this time. (5.11) F.A. Adam O'Connor and Courtney Rogalla
 
Arachnophobia (5.7+) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Terry Prodanyk
Climbed on:July 8, 2011
Report:This 4-bolt sport climb is on the free standing pillar immediately right, facing the classic Stairmaster. The 5.7 (5.8?) route starts in the middle on the steppy bottom (do not use the left wall), up over the large flake in the middle, trend to the right, then finish with a left top out. Bolted twin anchors at the top. There are harder variations on this climb (5.10+) up the right side or finishing directly up from the flake. 

Great new intro to Sport Climbing route to compliment Winter Wonderland and Sunny Side Up for beginners.

F.A. Terry Prodanyk
 
The Last Samurai : V6/7 (The Bluffs)
Submitted by:Kyle Shushack
Climbed on:April 21st 2010
Report:FA: Kyle Shushack/ Mitch Marostica

This is slightly overhanging boulder problem right off the parking lot at The Bluffs.  Climb the face to the left of "I Saw a Clear Light..." using sharp crimps and gastons for balance.  The crux is a slight throw to a good flake with  really bad feet and then a throw to the finish and top out.
 
The Negotiator, 5.11a *** (Claghorn (Longwall))
Submitted by:Matt Houston
Climbed on:Spring, 2010
Report:

This is the sport climb to the right of Gift of the Trees. Follow bolts in a dihedral to the top. A tricky start leads to amazing face climbing and an overhanging finish.

F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Aric Fishman

F.F.A Matt Houston

 
The Star Boulder (Climbers Cliffs)
Submitted by:Matt Houston
Climbed on:April, 2010
Report:

Location:

This boulder is located on the trail to the caves at Climbers Cliffs. Head up the Big Bear Trail and take your first right. Follow this to the boulder.

Routes:

Fun routes, all with great landings!

  1. Rock Star, V1 (V6/7 sit start) **
  2. Ninja Star V2 sit start *
  3. Twinkle Twinkle Ringo Star V1 Sit Start *
  4. Star Light, V1 stand start *
  5. Star Bright, V1 Sit start *
  6. Starburst, V6 sit start **
  7. Starway, V2 sit start ***

Cleaned and Climbed by: Matt Amon, Katelyn Chantler, Aric Fishman and Matt Houston

*There is room for a few additional hard problems on this boulder. There are also many other boulders, with cool features and good landings waiting to be explored!

** Make sure to contact the Chapmans for permission before climbing here. This applies everytime you go.

 
Everything Goes Brown 5.10b 70m (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:Matt Houston
Climbed on:Novemeber 12, 2010
Report:

Getting There:
Head to Mt. Godfrey, but instead of taking the right fork on the small dirt road, go left until you get to a lake, this is Crescent Lake.  This climbing area involves a bit of a hike, but is well worth it! The section of quality rock is above the shale band and kind of hidden. To get to this climb, hike along the North (right) side of the lake, staying close to the water.  At the end of the lake, head up into the boulder field. Head up and right to the base of the cliff. Use the picture above to identify the climb.

Route Description:
Look for a section with 2 distinct cracks on a steep multicoloured wall.  P1: (25m, 5.10b) Climb up easy ledges to the bottom of the obvious far left crack system. Climb straight up this overhanging crack, with perfect protection, to the large ledge above. Belay from the large pine tree on the ledge. P2: (20m, 5.7) Walk right on the big ledge and then head up a dirty corner to the next big ledge. Continue right to a large pine tree and set up a belay. P3: (25m, 5.7) This pitch is great fun with tones of cool moves. Head up from the tree and slightly left to the top. Rappel off the pine tree on top to the second belay, 25m. Rappel 25m to the ground, heading down right of the tree.

Gear:

Full set of stoppers. Set of cams to #2 Camalot, doubles of .5-1 are recommended for P1. Each belay has a large tree (Which also makes it easy to rap from any pitch).

Note: An easier first pitch (5.7ish) line would go with some cleaning.  This would make a 3 pitch 5.7, with huge tree belay ledges, great gear and good rock. A great intro to multipitch climbing!

F.A and F.A.A: Matt Houston and Aric Fishman

 

 
Electric Gigolo 5.12b (Climbers Cliffs)
Submitted by:Matt Houston
Climbed on:September 25, 2010
Report:

See guidebook for route description.

F.F.A: Fred Giroux

 
Trisuli Basaar 5.12a (The Bluffs)
Submitted by:Matt Houston
Climbed on:Oct 23, 2010
Report:We believe this the first free ascent of this route. This route is super bouldery and an exciting lead. Start under the roof and power straight up using crimpers and slapping up the arête to good holds. Place gear here, than prepare for the second crux following up the thin crack to good holds on top.  Belay off tree’s or Bolts above Gardener’s Book.

F.F.A Matt Houston
Gear: Couple small TCU’s and a couple tiny nuts. A crash pad is recommended for the bottom boulder start. There are also 2 old pitons near the start of the route and a rivet near the top, use with caution.
 
Cold Feat - 5.10c - 55m, 2 pitches (Crescent Lake (North Side))
Submitted by:Aric Fishman
Climbed on:March 19, 2011
Report:

F.A: Fred Giroux and Aric Fishman

F.F.A Aric Fishman and Jonathan Hollway

Getting There:

Hike in to Crescent Lake from the Water Treatment Center, or drive in if you can. Keeping close to the shore line, head down the right (North) side of the lake until it ends and turns into a marsh.  Start heading up the boulder field and continue a bit farther left along the cliffs till there is no more shale band. Use the picture to help you identify the climb.

Route Description:

Pitch 1 (35m): Start on the left side of the dihedral using nice ledges and a small crack. Head up and right towards the prominent hand crack but be careful not to knock of any loose rocks while traversing. Climb straight up the beautiful and slightly overhanging hand crack while taking advantage of footholds on the face along the way. There is an incredible belay ledge (gear) at the top of the hand crack to reduce rope drag.

Pitch 2 (20m): From the big belay ledge, climb straight up the finger-to-hand crack to another ledge and traverse left to get back to a good crack.  Continue climbing up and right using the obvious line in the middle of the wall. Once over the bulge, climb up and right using good foot and hand holds. Once on the massive ledge, move right and belay from a medium sized tree (has rappel anchor on it) and bomber gear. A 60m double rope rappel will get you all the way to the ground.

Gear: Standard rack up to 3” - doubles in small cams (blue TCU's) are useful.  

 
Death as an advisor 5.10c *** 30 m (1st Buttress Sqaw Bay)
Submitted by:Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on:June 2007
Report:

F.A. Kyle Brooks and Duncan Hutchison June 2007

F.F.A Duncan Hutchison and Kyle Brooks June 2010

Located on the 1st buttress at sqaw bay, find the anchors (2 gold chains) as you hike past (north of) “Stuck in a jam”.

Rappel into climb from 2 bolt anchor (or top belay), redirecting at the roof makes it easier to reach the start of climb. 2nd set of 2 bolt anchor, with quick links, for a hanging belay.

The climb starts 30 meters up on a large arete. Climb a wide hand crack through an upside-down staircase of roofs (easily visible from road), continue as crack trends left going through fists, hands, fingers, and face climbing (1 bolt). Finally back right again to finish at the anchor.

Gear: Cams 0.5 to 4inch (recommend you double up), with single set of tcu's; tripple up on 3 inch to be comfortable.

Note: Picture in Climbing magazine No. 238 March 2010. Spectacular pitch of crack climbing worth the top belay or rappel-lead, the only draw back is a hanging belay if you choose to lead it.

 
"Fraggle Rock" (Claghorn longwall right)
Submitted by:Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on:F.F.A. Duncan Hutchison,
Report:

5.8-5.9

F.F.A. Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks, Derek Patola May 2010

Located 25-40meters past "Des Nuts" area. Hidden in corner behind birch tree

Fun hands to fists to off-width to chimney. Watch for loose chockstone at top. Standard rack to 5 inches with double cams 2-4 inches . 25 meters. Walk down or rappel off “Des Nuts”

 
Heart of the Anomaly (Sliver Harbour)
Submitted by:Ryan Ford
Climbed on:October 6 2010
Report:

F.A. James Szolopiak

"Heart of the Anomaly" is the off width crack about 2 meters left of "Winter Wonderland". Not the most challenging route but lots of fun. A little stemming to start and a few hand jams leads to a nice finish. Use the anchors from "Winter Wonderland" to set up a top-rope. Not completely clean yet but all nice solid rock. Lots of fun.

 
Mighty Moose (5.5) (11m) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Terry Prodanyk
Climbed on:May 2010
Report:

FA: Monica Prodanyk

FFA: Terry Prodanyk

Located about 6m left while facing the big cave opening next to Silver Birch.

This is a great beginner route and intro trad climb. Takes cams and hexes very nicely once you're on the big ledge about half way up.  Beware of the flaring crack though for gear placement.   

Optional easy starts on the bottom-half of the climb for TR; then plan your next strategy on 'Disco-Dan's Dangerous Dance-Floor' and climb up the twin crack through the small chimney to the top.

 
Home of the Beaver (5.8+) (11m) (Silver Harbour)
Submitted by:Terry Prodanyk
Climbed on:May 1, 2010
Report:

FA: Monica Prodanyk, Terry Prodanyk

TR/Sport

Located immediately left (1-2 m) while facing the cave opening by Silver Birch...hence "Home of the Beaver" & "Mighty Moose" on the same wall further to the left.

Follow easy stepped ledges to start. Use a left mantle (optional) and side-pulls onto the first major ledge. Two steps on the right of the arret and an excellent flake with a layback will get you through the first crux move to the small ledge. Finish the top slab with balancey moves on sloped edges and small right-hand side pulls.

Anchors at top for easy setup with rappel rings.

July 2010: Now also a 3-bolt sport route.  The bottom section is ~5.5, middle section ~5.6-5.8, but the top third of this climb justifies the 5.8+ (5.9?) rating. Similar to the top of Stairmaster & Blockbuster.

 

 
Stirling 5.13b (Silver Harbor)
Submitted by:Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on:April 2010
Report:Left of Silver Harbor Dream Line, This route follows the arete on side pulling crips, pinches and dynamic climbing...
4 bolts with anchors.
 
Maltese Sandwiches 5.10c (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by:Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on:October 2009
Report:

F.A. Blain Herringer, Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell,
F.F.A. Blain Herringer

Left of The Beginning
Climb First Arete before The Beginning and Des Nutz...fun enjoyable climb with some funky moves...Clip the bolts and hit the anchors.
10 draws

 
Gift of the trees 5.12c-d (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by:Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on:October 2009
Report:

F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell, Blain Herringer
F.F.A. Nick Rochacewich

Right of Des Nutz
Follow the open book on a series of ledges on easy climbing to the roof, clip the bolt on the roof with a long draw and commit. Follow thin crimps and side pulls, with technical footwork on beautiful black streaks to anchors.
10 draws to anchors.

 
The Beginning 5.12b (Claghorn Longwall)
Submitted by:Danny O'Farrell
Climbed on:October 2009
Report:

F.A. Nick Rochacewich, Danny O'Farrell, Blain Herringer
F.F.A. Nick Rochacewich,

Left of Des Nutz...A well bolted 12a arete, very technical steep climbing, follow your way up thin crimpy ledges, side pulls and pricise foot work, to open the gates to the beginning. Fun and sequency route with good holds to clip from.
12 Quick Draws
Anchors

 
The Swing of Things 5.11d (Pass Lake, Staircase Wall)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:November 8 2009
Report:

FA: Adam O'Connor, Kyle Brooks

FFA: Adam O'Connor

Location: Only a few meters to the right of face dancing.

Start in a corner climb the edge of the overhang.  Crux between 4 and 5 bolt .  Fixed draws for the first 4 bolts Chains on top for anchor.

 
All Dressed 5.10a** (Claghorn long wall-right)
Submitted by:Duncan Hutchison
Climbed on:08-Aug-2009
Report:

FA Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison 8-Aug-09
FFA Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks 15-Aug-09


Located 50 meters or so, before “nothing shocking” and "Ace of Swords". Spruce tree at base with logs building up belay stance. Climb the varied crack into thin section(protected with small nuts and TCU's) and continue on with fun jamming to the top. 30 meters to top, rap off tree with cord anchor. Gear: Double rack up to #3 camalot would be comfortable, or single rack with double or triple .5-.75 camalots.

 
Back to the Temple 5.10? (Caribou Island)
Submitted by:Alex Joseph
Climbed on:July 21 2009
Report:

Back to the Temple 5.10? 30m
FA: Alex Joseph, Jarron Childs Jul '09


Fantastic gear belay position on a nice ledge with great view of Temple Reef and beyond. Steep face covered in lichen that if completely cleaned likely would go at 11 but with heavy lichen was a weaving, rope hang with pendulums to decent holds through largely blank sections in the middle. Good finger crack corner pillar to start. Top rope.

 
Saddle Up 5.7 (Passlake- Overhanging wall/No man's Land)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:2008
Report:

   Saddle Up is to the left of Cave Crawler.  Climb up either side of the same block as cave crawler.  (sport, 5 bolts , 2 bolt anchor)
         Established in november 08 , Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks


(Fun route and is great addition to Cave Crawler)

 
Toss It Up 5.9+ 50m 2 pitch (Squaw Bay ( Chiller Pillar Wall))
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:2008
Report:

F.A. Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison, Shawn Robinson P1 , FFA Duncan Hutchison, Derrik Patola P1, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks P2

Location: approximately 100m to the right of American Demon.
Pitch1  Start up a small shale band to a slaby face with a bolt. Travers to the right to reach a crack system leading to a fun roof..... 5.9+ 20m Bolted Belay.
Pitch 2 Travers right to a large ledge passing a bolt. Step down to a great clean crack all the way up .5.8 30m Gear :2 Bolts tcus, Rp’s, Gear to 4 Note P1 may require a couple purple tcus
Rappel with two ropes to ground

This Is a highly recommended route lots of varied climbing  * there is a third pitch to the top but is a JUNK pile but if you want to go to the top it is  10 meters easy loose Low 5th class, rap from pine tree.)

 
Mc Jiggy 10C 14meters (Pass Lake (staricase wall))
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:Oct 08
Report:

F.A Kyle Brooks, Alex Holowatty..     Located to the right of face dancing.   Great route with wicked crux move ..   4 bolts

 
Lookout 5.8+ 30m ( Lost Falls , Left Wall)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:Sept 20 /08
Report:

FA: Kyle Brooks ,Duncan Hutchison FFA Kyle Brooks , Alex Holowatty


This route is located to the left of escape from the black flies.      Climb the blockly start to a finger /hand crack in a corner.  Catch a rest on the large ledge  and follow the 3 bolts  to the top.   Bolted Belay      

 
Sunshine and lollipops 55 meters .10a 2 pitch (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:Summer 08
Report:

F.A : Alex  Holowatty, Phil Dunn, Duncan Hutchison, Kyle Brooks,

Located 2.2km up the road, park at the pull over . hike straight up towards a prominent buttress.

Pitch 1:  Climb the traversing face , then thin cracks to a bolted belay . Extend all pieces after 3 bolt. .  40 m  6 bolts

Pitch 2: Climb flakes and crack to the top. 15.      Gear : Nuts, lots TCU's, standard rack of cams , 6 + runners for pitch 1

 
Autochone O-tak-thone 45 m 10c *** (Sqaw Bay, Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on: FFA:June 08 Duncan Hutch
Report:

FFA : Duncan Hutchison


FA: Kyle Brooks, Duncan Hutchison .Aug 07 


This route shares the same start as pokey kitty.  Start on the bolck, climb into the corner then bust out RIGHT.


This is an wicked good route that offers a little of every thing . Great climbing on steep rock  Rapple from rings
Gear : lots!   Double rack cams ,TCUs Gear to 3''

 
Pokey Kitty 30m 10+ * (Squaw Bay ,Chiller Pillar Wall)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:FFA: July/08 Kyle Brooks
Report:

To the right of Pokey Puppy/Tag 11A.  Pokey Kitty stats on a block, head up a crack that leads into a corner then bust  out LEFT towards some flakes protected by a bolt.  Jam your way  up the crack , to the start of a large flake cross over to the finger crack to your left . chains  on top for belay Gear: standerd rack ,TCU, couple little tiny nuts


Note second pitch looks cool but lots of cleaning needed

 
Water Side Attraction 2 pitch 50m 5.9 (Oliver Lake : Amphitheatre Wall)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:Aug 4/2008
Report:

FFA :  p1 Kyle Brooks p2 Danny O'Farrell


A boat is required to get to the Amphitheater. From west side of oliver lake. Canoe past several small cliffs  (water soloing) , Then past 3 camps.  And it is the first large 50 meter cliff . 5-10 minute canoe ride  Great route with lots of adventure to go with it.(loose rock.)
Pitch1 Start a cedar tree with a small belay area . Climb up corner to large roof , traverse right then up to belay ledge Gear belay large cd's needed.
Pitch 2 Climb up under the large roof exit left though offwidth and top out to tree belay (careful for loose rock between belay and large roof)    Gear: Standerd Rack with extra # 2-4

 
deep water soloing (Oliver Lake)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:Hot Summer Days
Report:

There are a couple of fun deep water solos at Oliver Lake. 10 meters at  most.  Deep water off cliff face.  A  canoe  is needed .  do not climb close to any camps because of the private property.  Crazy FUN

 
Hidden Treasures 2pitch 70m 5.9 ** (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:May 08
Report:F.A Phil Dunn, Kyle Brooks
This route is located in front of fire# 386 sign/driveway . Just around the corner of Reflection Lake Resort
Pitch 1:  Climb the slab working your way to the base of a flake crack with bolted belay . 5.6 R  Rp's very useful.
Pitch 2 :Climb hand /fist crack that turns offwidth. Continue up a beautiful crack that quickly turns thin go staight up ( much harder than 5.9) or make a big reach right , to a bomber flake that brings you under a roof. Traverse roof to original crack top out to a bolted belay.
rappell route  2 -60 m ropes gets you just to the ground with stretch Gear  full rack cd's  double #3, # 6optional
 
Every Thing Goes Green - 10b (PassLake)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:june 6 2007
Report:Duncan and I think this may have been a f.f.a on this route.
We lead it on gear, the first placement 15 feet up was a little dubious.
i would not really want to whip on the placements.
 
The Right Of Way (Mt. Godfrey)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Summer 05\'
Report:(the info in the new guidbook is a little off and does not do this climb justice)
The Right of Way 5.10d, 70m ***
FA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
FFA: Brandon Pullan, Will Meinen
An awesome line in a beautiful setting. It is the most obvious crack in the area and it is wild that it hadnt been climbed. Start 50m left of Echoes of the Totem at the base of a stellar hand crack.
P1: follow crack to ledge the matle to slanting ledge with anchors. 5.8 20m
P2: layback the thin corner crack stemming your way under a small roof. At the roof, pull the roof of small fingers, sparse feet and wild exposure into a dihedral then to a small ledge with anchors. 5.10d 30m
P3: jam the fun corner crack with ease to the cliff top. 5.9 20m
 
Building An Ego (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:summer 05
Report:Building an Ego! 5.11a, 25m
FA/FFA: Brandon Pullan, Steve Gale
I established this route, solo ground up for the first 3 bolts.. it was my first ground up attempt for a pure sport climb and led to many out west where I am now. The last 5 bolts I rapped in from the top. This route is high quality and one of my favorite routes. It is the sport climb found 15m rite of Chinesse water Torture.. Next to the TR route Jesus' Hair Do. I Searched for hours with the guide (old and new) for a line yet climbed, the lake is pretty much climbed out but there is still a little potential.
ROUTE: Climb up past slopping ledges up and left past bad rock and into the crux.. power through a balancy sequence and then onto a funky face with horizontal slopers galore, anchor has quick links, rap. Have Fun!
 
Des Nuts 5.9+ (claghorn long wall)
Submitted by:kyle brooks
Climbed on:oct 28 2006
Report:Location; park at the second clearcut access road, it is now dug up so you cant drive in. walk towarks the back of the cut to log, hammerd into the ground with flaging tape. follow to trail to talus and go stright up towards the drainage gully. the climb is a few feet to the right of the drainage. 5 minute walk to nothing shocking.

This climb follows a 6 boltline up a thin flake to a corner, continue up the dihedral to a roof. Pull out with a crack and good feet.
6 bolt, finger crack sized gear.
F.A Ryan Hymers, Kyle Brooks, Richie Sitarski
F.F.A kyle brooks oct 28 06

 
Sundance (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Aug. 06
Report:A wild crack line that separates a large pillar from the main wall north of mt. olympus. It is most likely the best crack ive ever been on..
P1: Climb the stellar crack to the inner cave belay. 5.9 (35m)
P2: exit out through large roof.... (project)

FA Patola, Pullan
 
Paralyzed by Choice (Lost Falls)
Submitted by:Alex Joseph
Climbed on:08/2006
Report:5.8 (4 pitch) 75m? trad 1.5*
FA: Jarron Childs, Alex Joseph alts. 08/2006 (ground up onsight)

A new route in the area around the corner left of Myopic Adventure on Big Thunder Wall just as the loose chossy rock begins to make the start difficult. (repeated route in 2009 and it likely is the easiest line).

P1: Follow up from the left past a cedar in the loose choss, to a cedar in the corner and then up the solid corner and left face to a horizontal cedar belay on a sitting ledge. This is also a potential rappel location (5.4-25m). P2: This is the best pitch. Work up the corner finger-fist crack using small thin edges and jams. Then stem right around what seems like a loose block with a great undercling to a foot ledge. Then work up near the arete with lots of air below on great hand and foot holds with a thin crack for good gear, past a small cedar to sling. Then up to a roof on the right and belay in good 1-2" crack (5.8-25m). P3: Traverse delicately right around roof and up through some vertical cracks to a large ledge with trees. Alternatively go left up through a nice looking flake and roof (5.8-15m). P4: Pop up through some cracks and blocks and top out by pulling through a final boulder (5.4-15m). DESCENT: Via the rappel above Deceptacon.
 

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