Alpine Club Of Canada

Thunder Bay Section

New Ice Routes



Read This First!

CAUTION! Scrambling, technical rock, ice and mixed climbing and mountaineering activities are, by their very nature, potentially hazardous activities. You could be severely injured or killed while participating in them. The information presented in these conditions and trip reports is intended to supplement, NOT replace, sound judgement and experience. The accuracy or truth of any information presented here cannot be guaranteed and may change with time. Conditions in a given area or on a particular climb may (and likely will) vary from day to day or even hour to hour. Ice and mixed climbs in particular may vary considerably in safety, stability and overall condition over a short period of time. The onus is on the individual to verify the applicability of the information presented here to a given time and environment before using it as the basis of any kind of decision. This must not be your only source of information on any given subject. Seek additional information from guidebooks, reputable climbing schools, mountain guides, local climbers, Park Wardens and Rangers. Common sense and a strong will to survive must pervade your thoughts and actions. By using the information contained here, you are releasing the authors, contributors and The Alpine Club of Canada from any liability for any injury, including death, that may occur. You have been warned.

These conditions reports are limited to climbs in the Thunder Bay region, and to areas west of and including Thunder Bay, Orient Bay, Kama Hills and Ice Station Superior. All folks posting conditions are required to log in with a valid email address and password. As well, keep your postings clean and limited to conditions reports - this is not intended as a forum for discussion. Any postings containing foul language, erroneous information, false reports, slander, spam or other malicious content will be edited or removed at the discretion of the webmaster. As a rule the ACC Thunder Bay Section does not promote climbing without protective gear such as helmets or ropes. Any posts that suggest soloing or have photos of climbers without protective gear will be edited or removed. Censorship is definitely NOT cool, unfortunately these are our rules.

That said, get out there and start climbing!

If you want a location on any of the routes listed you may find them in the Community Maps


Add New Ice Route

Split Decision (Sturgeon Bay Road)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 3rd, 2016
Report:

Grade 4, 25 metres     Rod Brown & Paul Berger

Park on a short road heading south from Sturgeon Bay Road 2.5 km from the highway. The approach is about 1 km along a snowmobile trail, through a clearing, then bushwacking to the Jarvis River (forded today on a fallen tree) and upslope to the climb.

I placed two low screws bouldering to warm up and Rod led up, taking a big piece of ice just under his nose just past the first screws. Not quite enough for stitches.

We climbed on the far right, then traversed the sloping snow-covered ledge, and finished on the left up past a fantastic umbrella.

The route is on the right in photo three. The left route is Across the Divide, then Separation Anxiety and The Ties That Bind have grown together under the big tree. There's a lot more ice here that when we climbed the others, which only form in good years from rain or a strong melt followed by cold.

481022.99 N    892608.03 W

 

 

 

 

 
Living Fossils (Sturgeon Bay)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 20th, 2016
Report:

Grade 3, 23 m    Paul Berger & Rod Brown

I've glimpsed ice here in the past, but this year may be better than most; the ice touches down and was wet and therefore still building following the recent thaw.

As usual, I picked the easiest route, climbing the right side and stemming a bit to the middle pillar. I transferred into the middle at the lip to finish up ambling ice and snowfields to the big tree at the top middle. Photo three is Rod on the left, very thin, pillar on toprope.

Turn right on Mink Mountain Road from Sturgeon Bay Road. Park after about 1.2 km. The approach is short.

Sturgeon are also known as 'living fossils' since they've changed so little since their appearance in the fossil record over 200 million years ago. The name is not a reference to the aging climbers.

ca. 481037.14N   891844.57W

 
Ghosts and Zombies (Opposite Red Rock Cuesta)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 13th, 2016
Report:

Grade 2+,  10 m    Paul Berger/Rod Brown

About 30 metres north of Vampire's Kiss, we almost skipped this short route. But like Zombies, we couldn't help ourselves. We climbed side by side. Happily, it eased back by the time we were much too high to be unroped. 

 
Vampire's Kiss (Opposite Red Rock Cuesta)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 13th, 2016
Report:

Grade 3+, 35 m    Rod Brown and Paul Berger

We parked in a road construction lot on the north side of Hwy 11/17 about 1.5 km before the road goes between the hills and turns towards Nipigon. The climb is not visible from the road. We saw it from high on the other side. It's about 600 metres from the parking lot.

The icicles looked like Dracula's fangs and a small piece of ice caught Rod below the lip - the Vampire's kiss - resulting in some blood. The climb was dripping wet and melting fast. Good pro though and some small trees to sling on the way to the belay.

485835.57 N  882044.69 W

 
Fragile Illusions (Red Rock Cuesta)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 6th, 2016
Report:

Grade 2+   20 m    Paul Berger & Rod Brown

This climb is about 30 metres south of the first pitch of Magical Thinking.

It looked and should have been easy, but that turned out to be an illusion as the ice was fragile and I had trouble trusting tool placements. I climbed into the slot visible in the photo to place a screw and have a full arms-down rest before traversing right to the gentle finish.

The route overlooks the natural gas pipeline route that has been proposed for conversion to diluted bitumen. It made me think that the Prime Minister said this week that Canada needs to use its fossil fuels to get off fossil fuels. A fragile illusion.

 
Trump This (Red Rock Cuesta)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 6th, 2016
Report:

Grade 3, 20 m   Rod Brown & Paul Berger

Accessed from a highway construction parking lot near the north end of the cliffs, the route is on the south end of the second red cliff band at about 48 58 49 N  & 88 19 39.35 W (photo 3).

Just climb straight up over a few small sloped ledges to a belay tree. The route is probably courtesy of the December rain.

The name reflects dismay at some current themes in the US Presidential race.

Paul

 
Magical Thinking (Red Rock Cuesta)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:February 13th, 2016
Report:

3+ (Pitch 1, 25 m; Pitch 2, 35 m) Paul Berger & Rod Brown

We parked at -27 C in a parking area related to the current construction off Hwy 11/17 just before the last band of low red rock. We thought the <1km approach would be quick, but that was magical thinking. It took 2 hours in deep snow. Aim just right of the last red band and then uphill, including a short rock band where we passed packs up.

Pitch one (close up rap photo) was a short pillar with a horizontal break near the bottom. The ice was (predictably) hard and the sound troubling. The narrow bottom made it hard to stay stable. We took turns going up and back down the pillar until we had protection and went up. The rest of the pitch was a mix of snowfield and snow-covered ice.

Pitch two (distance rap photo) had a crux coming out from under the rock roof onto two thin bands of ice and moving up to two small trees for protection. Traversing back left onto the ice above, the rest was beautiful yellow rolling ice.

Photo one has arrows that show the start of each pitch.

'Magical thinking' is a term used in political commentary for logic that is seriously flawed.

On Google Earth, the climb is at approximately 485849 N 88192590 W

 

 
Don't Blink (Hwy 17 at Jackfish River East of Nipigon)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:January 9th, 2016
Report:

4+, 40 m    Rod Brown and Paul Berger    Probable First Ascent

This cliimb is on the cliff band visible to your right as you cross the Jackfish River driving eastbound, about a quarter of the way from the north end of the cliffs. Park at a small parking area cleared by CN at the north end of the cliffs and approach across the tracks, walking south on an uncleared road that parallels the cliff face, past the small climb Weeping Angel, and then left up towards a talus slope. Ascend the slope to the base of the climb.

A few years ago after early season rain I saw ice here, but it was gone a week or two later (don't blink!)

From the road the week before we climbed (photo one) it looked great. From up close it was chandaliered and not as great. The protection in places was good, but a lot of ice came down (don't blink). In photo three Rod has placed the last protection before the crux - moving to and past the small umbrella at the top of the vertical section before getting to a solid stance for another screw. Stemming didn't work well on that part as the thin ice on the left wall was delaminated and much came down. The top part was fun!

Rain is probably needed for this climb to form. It might come in with late freeze/thaw, but I haven't seen it.

On GoogleEarth the climb is at 490049.32 N, 880408.64 W

Paul

 

 

 

 

 
Alloy Boy WI4+ 30m (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Eric Landmann
Climbed on:1/2/16
Report:

Burt LIndquist and I climbed a new route at km 9.2 on Domtar 81 Road at Kama Bay. This route is the centermost of a set of three routes forming low down very close to the road. We have dubbed this buttress Kama Bay Roadside Crag due to the really short approach. The other routes are yet to be done. The route's main feature is a meter-deep overhang that has a committing move to surmount. Burt cleared overhanging ice to make it possible to clear the roof. The ice good-quality, solid WI4 with great gear. FA: Burt Lindquist and Eric Landmann, 1/2/16

 
Plumbers Crack/Indifference/Left Behind (OB)
Submitted by:Bryce Brown
Climbed on:Dec 31, 2015
Report:

Nick Buda and I climbed three (suspected) new lines around Obsession today.  Neither of us or Eric Landman could remember seeing ice here and there were no signs of previous travel.  

 

The actual WI grades are not high due to only shorter vertical sections and lots of rests, but these climbs should not be underestimated by WI3-4 climbers.  The ice is thin with some moves on rock.  We did not apply a M-grade as we were always on ice, but mixed techniques were required in some sections.  Also note, the protection is at times sparse and quite suspect - a fall would be very consequential (i.e. R/X).  

 

Plumbers Crack. 40m WI4 R (first photo)

Arguably the nicest of the three.  

Located between Plum Dalliance and Obsession above the north end of the Cascade pullout.  Scramble up the talus cone, at the top either climb easy ice in the gully at the top left of the cone or traverse around right up to the ledge.  

Climbs up the narrow ribbon for 20m then eases off for the top half. 

Small mixed rack, screws (stubbies).

 

Indifference. 40m WI4- R (second photo)

Thin ice immediately left of Obsession.  Start at Obsession’s ring anchors (left side of gully at top of approach ice).  Climb the steep, thin curtain left of the ring bolts to the ledge.  Work initially right to gain the big ledge then easily traverse on rock around left into the groove.  Quite fun, thin ice for another 20m, with ice quality improving closer to the top.  

Screws (stubbies).

 

Left Behind.  50m WI3+ R/X (third photo)

Approximately 150m left of Obsession.  Thin ice up blocks and ledges.

Small rack up to #2 Camelot, screws (stubbies).

 
Wading Thru the BS (Black Sturgeon Road)
Submitted by:Robert Farrow
Climbed on:March 7, 2015
Report:30 m Grade 3+ Robert B. Farrow, Frank Pianka and Terry Prodanyk I discovered this waterfall back in 2006 while bushwhacking up to a high point on Eagle Mountain in the Black Sturgeon area. It’s in a small canyon high up on the mountain with the only way in being up the creek due to the steepness of the canyon walls. After asking around the climbing community and checking climbing guidebooks, I decided that this falls had never been ice climbed. It is not visible from the road and there is no visible trail in. On March 2, 2015 I broke trail in and found it extremely difficult to do so, having to first push through dense bush for half a km and then another half km up the small creek that goes into the ground with no sign of it crossing the road anywhere. Hiking up the creek is a challenge and a treat…reminds me of the Pacific Northwest! Climbing over small rock ledges and going over or under many downed trees, you will finally reach the base of the falls about 700 vertical feet up from the road. North on Hwy 11/17 83kms from Thunder Bay turn up Black Sturgeon Road. Just before mileage marker 27 hike into the bush on the west side of the road, there is no trail. Head for the small V on the Mountain. It’s hard to find the creek but if you head toward the V and keep between the steep hills and cliff, you should end up in the creek that comes from the canyon. Follow it up to the falls. There are many routes to be found at this site, from short easier climbs to longer more difficult climbs, all which lead up to the cedar trees at the top of the climb! The ice this year hasn’t formed up really great but last year it was nice and fat! We installed a Rap anchor on one of the cedars and left it there for future use. Given the difficultly in reaching this site and being a north facing climb with cold damp air in the canyon which never sees the sun, this climb won’t see much if any traffic!
 
Enceladus (Trowbridge Island)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 23, 2014
Report:

15 m  Grade 3

Rod Brown & Paul Berger

Approach from Silver Islet 5.8 km to Trowbridge Island. Use extreme caution travelling on Lake Superior. Take rescue gear, change of clothes in a dry bag, and know how to self-rescue. This route would need a sea kayak approach in any normal year - and the start might be in water...

Mike Zettek and I saw this climb skating south of Trowbridge Island on March 4th (left photo).

Enceladus is a small ice covered moon of Saturn (the climb is small and way out there). It's very cold (so was the climb - minus 19 when we got on it). Volcanoes explode water that becomes an ice ring of Saturn (the climb was very brittle and Rod knocked some huge pieces off - right photo).

Start up an easy ice slope and finish with vertical ice. Nice view from the top!

 
Little Devil (Devil's Crater)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 16th, 2014
Report:

35 m  M4- Grade 2

Paul Berger & Marcus Himanen

Same approach as Devil's Spell. On the north side at the rim of the Crater there's a slot with a small ice climb in it. To get there was less than half the fun!

Starts with an easy scramble right to left up to a belay stance.

Pitch 1. The first 25 metres up to the right from there was on belay, a mix of rock scramble with some moss sticks and limited drytooling (Marcus climbed without tools at that point and said it was 5.5). A small cam and 1" cam were useful, as was a caribiner used as a chock. Some larger cams would mean better protection. Once around a dodgy corner, belay from a nice tree.

Ascend a snow slope diagonally to the climb.

Pitch 2. Easy ice (10 m from belay to belay, though the ice part was shorter) up to sloping snow-covered ice.

 

 

 
Dirty Devil (Devil's Crater)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 16th, 2014
Report:

40 m  Grade 4 & 3

Approach: Same as for Devil's Spell but left as you enter the Crater.

Kevin Shorthouse and Marcus Himanen climbed a grade 4 line while Paul Berger & Rod Brown climbed a grade 3 line. A 4+ could be climbed on the left and a 2 or even perhaps 1 on the right.

The very dark ice suggested the name of this route. It's the main flow into the Crater. The night was about -33 C, so the ice was fairly brittle.

 

 

 

 
Devil's Spell (Devil's Crater)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 2004
Report:

70 m  Grade 4

FA Rod Brown, Volker Krom & Mike Shacklady

 

Pitch 1 – 30 m to Ablakov anchor on a big ledge

Pitch 2 – 40 m to trees

 

Rod Brown and Kevin Shorthouse climbed this again on March 16th, 2014. Approach was via the Armstrong Road, Hwy 811, and the Roaring River logging road, which is not usually cleared but was this year. Then approximately 3.5 km through the forest to the lake/river system coming out of the Crater. We camped about 3.5 km upriver then broke trail another 3 km to the Crater on the 15th. On the 16th we headed in with gear, camped again that night and came out on the 17th.

 

Rod has seen bad slush on the Crater lake in past years. This year it was solid around the edge, but we had significant problems on the lake/river system on the way in, with slush and a thin crust over 20 cm of water over good ice. This slowed us down a lot and resulted in a few soakers and wet mitts.

 

Left photo is 2004 condition. Middle is Rod on FA. Right is Kevin leading this year.

 
Across the Divide (Sturgeon Bay Road)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 13, 2012
Report:

Grade 4    25 metres     Paul Berger & Rod Brown

This climb is to the left of Separation Anxiety. It didn't exist several weeks ago. Heading straight up might have been possible on very thin ice but we went right instead, behind the birch tree. An ice column headed straight up into the umbrellas but we weren't sure we could get over them.

The name comes both from the narrow vertical rock band we needed to cross to get to the birch tree and back to the ice on the face, and to chimneying on and then stemming to the tree, which made the route possible for us. Several long screws and a bunch of short ones gave good protection.

Separation Anxiety and The Ties That Bind Us have grown a bit, but mostly with very funky umprellas at the top.

Paul

 
The Ties That Bind Us (Sturgeon Bay Road)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 6, 2013
Report:

Grade 4+   30 metres    Paul Berger & Rod Brown

Just to the right of Separation Anxiety on the Butte to the south of Gammond Road. Photo one shows the whole route; I started up the rock but backed off and used the start of Separation Anxiety, then traversed (photo 2). In the third photo I'm under umbrellas on a small bulge. A short screw protected this and by putting my left shoulder under the umbrella I got a hands down rest before moving over the umbrellas.

 

 
Thunder & Lightning 2nd pitch (Thunder Mountain)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 29, 2013
Report:

Grade 1+    60 metres

When Rod & I climbed Thunder & Lightning in 2008 we didn't realize there was more ice above. It turned out to be very low angle (see photo 2). We crossed snow for 50 or 60 metres before it steepened enough to become ice and then the climb rambled to the top. The first pitch (photo 1) was in great shape.

Paul

 

 
10 Degrees (Thunder Mountain)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 29, 2013
Report:

Grade 3   10 metres    Rod Brown & Paul Berger

This short climb is visible from the bridge near the Sea Lion on the Kabeyun Trail. We went in to climb the second pitch of Thunder & Lightning and thought we would check it out while in the area. We traversed from the top of Thunder & Lightning and rapelled down, magically right beside this climb. The day was sunny and 10 degrees Celsius. The photo of three climbs is from Shuniah Lake. Approach from the Lake takes about 2.5 hours.

 

 
The Otter Slide (Forgan Lake)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 24, 2013
Report:

Grade 3,   15 metres   Paul Berger & Rod Brown

See approach for 'Exercising Patience' below. This climb is about 200 m south towards the dam. From the lake it looks like a steep beginning and then nice ramp on top. The crux was passing the icicle section. Despite appearances the climb took a mixture of short and full-length screws. Named for the many otter tracks and slide paths along several kilometres of the east edge of the lake, and the nice grade 2 ramp to the top.

 

 

 
Exercising Patience (Forgan Lake)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 24, 2013
Report:

Grade 3+, 20 m    Rod Brown & Paul Berger

On the east shore of Forgan Lake about 2.5 km straight line from the dam, just north of the small island inside the long thin island. Acess across the lake with caution since a lot of water flows over this dam.

Paul

 
Forgan Conclusion (Forgan Lake)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 16th, 2013
Report:

Grade 4, 45 m   Paul Berger, Marcus Himanen, Rod Brown

From the end of HWY 585 at the damn that creates Forgan Lake, this climb is visible with binoculars looking NNE 3.5 km across the lake. Find the end of the long narrow island, then pan right a bit to the low spot on the island. The climb is above this on the mainland above a talus cone. I expect it forms every year as I've seen it before from a distance.

The Lake is fomed by the damn and there's a lot of water that flows out, so cross only if you have familiarity with lake ice travel above dams and you can test ice thickness or otherwise be certain of its safety.

We climbed in two pitches of about 21 and 24 metres, with a snowfied in between. It was about -14 C and the ice was fairly brittle, but thick and took good screws.

Paul

 

 

 

 

 

 
Old Time Hockey (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:Mar. 2003
Report:

Old Time Hockey
WI4, 45m
FA: Mar. 2003 - Wes Bender, Shawn Morgan, Jamie Larson

Park at the road to the west of the Jackfish river bridge on highway 17. Ensure you are well off the highway. Walk the road until you arrive at the base of the talus slope. Start heading up and trending to the right. This climb is located in a deep slot about 200 meters to the right of the bridge.

The climb starts as an awkward vertical column with tricky protection. You'll arrive at a rampy section which leads to a near vertical wall to finish.

Rap the route via the anchor on the trees above. It may need to be freshened up as the last time I was in there was 2006.

 
Separation Anxiety (Sturgeon Bay Road)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:February 23rd, 2013
Report:Grade 3+  28 metres   Paul Berger & Rod Brown

I've never seen this route form before, though I've seen some icicles in roughly this location in wet years. This formed in the early January freeze/thaw/rain cycle. It's north facing on the mesa at the head of Pit and Gammond Roads, less than 2 km east of the highway. Very visible from Sturgeon Bay Road. On the east side of this mesa Jarvis Spire was climbed in a great ice year - there's no ice there this time.

Park at the head of Gammond Road. Follow snowmobile trails then bushwack up the steepening slope to the climb. About an hour from the car in fairly deep snow.

The climb looked very steep from a distance, looked steppy from up close, and looked very steep at the top from on lead. Named partly for the big chunks of ice that detached and fell, and partly for my anxiety about separating from the route near the top. Climbing without leashes for the first time this year the problem with pumping out is amplified...

Warm temperatures made the ice much more friendly than on a cold day with a north wind.

Paul
 
Left to Your Own Devices (Mink Mountain Area)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:February 10th, 2013
Report:Grade 4, 25 metres    Rod Brown & Paul Berger

Access from the Mink Mountain Properties by canoe or over the ice. Head south and west around the corner, then a few hundred metres. This climb is a hundred metres before Skinny Mink & Elusive Mink.

The bottom flow climbs well, but you need to top out on it drytooling or using hands. Rod left an ice axe and then went back for it after getting a cam in around the corner - suggesting the name for the climb. It's unnerving to move from the ice onto the short traverse, but feels secure once you're on it. The last ice is steeper than it looks (it always is). The route took 13 cm screws. Belay from the cedar tree.

I've never seen ice like this in this spot, though there's always something under the cedar tree. The bottom part may only form in exceptional years.

Paul Berger
 
Weeping Angel (Jackfish River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:January 5, 2013
Report:Grade 3, 15 metres    Rod Brown & Paul Berger

This short, very white column of ice is visible from the highway. It's just east of the Jackfish River seeping out of the lower cliffs on the south side of the road, close to the east end of the cliffs. Park in the pulloff by the rail crossing and hike a few minutes up the road, then bushwack briefly and ascend a steep talus slope to the climb. I haven't seen this in other years.

The whiteness and a small stream of water on one side suggested the name. There is no easy way out at the top, and the rock is very fragile, so we rappelled from an Ablakov.

Paul Berger
 
On the (Old) Road (Ice Station Superior)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:January 5, 2013
Report:Grade 3, 8 metres    Paul Berger & Rod Brown  

From the parking pullout head down to the old highway and then 10 minutes up the old highway to this area, visible barely from the parking pullout. We climbed this because we were there - we couldn't see how high it was from the car. We bouldered a bit on very thin ice to the west of the climb afterwards.
 
Elusive Mink (Mink Mountain Area)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:January 1st, 2013
Report:Grade 4, 33 m.  Rod Brown & Paul Berger

Forms only in good years, then melts out quickly due to southern exposure. The year I climbed Skinny Mink - a climb 10 m to the east - there was ice across the whole face of Elusive Mink. This year there's no Skinny Mink, and much less ice on this route. It will be gone in about a week of sunshine.

Rod led the left corner after a difficult start on little ice, then a shelf traverse to a difficult middle on steppy blocks with ice that shattered easily (on the left photo the steppy part is the first visible ice; on the middle one the start, on the left, is not clear). Much of the ice higher up was detached and a lot came down. The last metre had no ice but ice axe hooks on the left. Good protection with bush slings, a cam, short screws and a few long screws in the corner.

Andrew Haill first noticed water flowing on a hike at the top about 8 years ago. It has probably formed 3 or 4 times since, but timing is important. Approach is south and west via a sometimes exposed sloping scree slope (difficult) above the Lake from the west end of Island Avenue at the Mink Mountain properties, or by canoe - paddle SW to the corner and another 600 or so metres. Sometimes there's too much ice to paddle and too little to walk on.

Fantastic View!
Paul
 
Tunnel Vision (Ice Station Superior)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:December 16, 2012
Report:Grade 3, 22m, Paul Berger & Rod Brown.

Approach as for River of Frozen Dreams but continue (carefully) through the short tunnel. About 300 m past the tunnel there's ice up on the left. Ascend the treed slope to the base. The route was thin and was climbed on the left where it almost took 13 cm screws at the start, and then took several full length screws before a short traverse to a thin finish.
 
Fail to Remain (Mt McKay (North Side), Lower Band)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 19, 2011
Report:Rod Brown & Paul Berger   Grade 3, 8 m

This short climb formed in the cold nights last weekend and early this week. It's about 5 m left of April Fools (which is now gone except for a smear at the top). It's the central small pillar in the second photo (photo taken from old Mt McKay Ski Area parking lot).

The pillar turned out to be detached and melting. Rod led it carefully, since otherwise large pieces failed to remain. My second crampon placement removed a third of the pillar near the base, and after that I climbed carefully.
 
Irrational Exuberance (Mt Matchett)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 6, 2011
Report:Rod Brown & Paul Berger: Grade 4, 50 m

This thin, damp route is in a corner on the north side of Mt Matchett. Protection with 2 sceptres in an icy rock seeam at the start, 6 cams of various sizes in cracks to the left of the ice, one 10 cm screw, two 15 cm screws, and two slung groups of small trees.

The crux is the steep and awkward first vertical section. As Frank Pianka describes an iron rule of iceclimbing - it's steeper and harder than it looks. Or was that steeper and longer? What looked like a great ledge rest wasn't, and the rock slot we needed to squeeze through was only half an axe length wide. Good rock protection though. A fun climb in a great location.

After the initial vertical it flattens a bit before a very thin, but wider, vertical piece, about 3 m high. Then through brush and snow with ice underneath before a final steep section with thick ice. Belay from a thick poplar tree just as the 50 m rope runs out.

Park in the old Mt McKay ski hill parking lot and ascend to the plateau. Follow the blue flagged trail between McKay and Matchett. When it soon nears Matchett and ascends a snowfield, leave the trail and continue up. Before getting to the trees, head straight up to the climb. You should be able to see most of the pulp mill from the base of the climb beside the shoulder of Mt McKay. The climb may only form in late season rain/freeze, and may never be very thick. It is very easy to miss. The ice sheets high up are what led us to the route.
 
Precision (Mt McKay (North Side))
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 1, 2011
Report:Rod Brown & Paul Berger: 35 m, Grade 4

This route is on the west end of the north side of Mt McKay (see also photo on April Fools) with a great view of the paper mill. You can see it from anywhere in town, but best with binoculars. The ice was thin and hard to protect. The belay was at the small dead tree backed up with screws. To top out here would require rock climbing.

Protection was with two small cams, a nut, a 2 mm lost arrow piton, three 10 cm screws (one bottomed out), two 15 cm screws (one bottomed out, the good one was in the first thick ice on the slope a few metres below the belay tree) and two pulsars.

This climb requires precision timing. We saw it first in 2009 after a spring melt followed by a cold spell. Rod and I climbed a horrible gully with an aging fixed rope to get to the route to find water pouring down. Last year nothing at all formed. This year I believe it formed in the cold spell starting about March 20th following the rain. Rod and I went to climb on March 25th by climbing over the top of McKay and descending a steep snowfield past a tree with old webbing around it, then traversing under the climb. We decided it was too thin to properly protect. We hoped the freeze/thaw through the week would build ice; it didn't, but we came with more protection.

We approached this time up the old Mt McKay ski hill, then Rod led the shortest point in the crumbling lower rock band, which felt very sketchy following. This approach took as long as over the top of McKay and down. On the ice route precision tool placements are needed. With only a few swings you're hitting rock. I expected there would be good stemming and rests higher up, but the climb was very steep and stayed strenuous all the way to the final slope below the belay tree. A beautiful location and great route when it forms. A very strong lead by Rod.
 
April Fools (Mt McKay (North Side), Lower Band)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 1, 2011
Report:Paul Berger & Rod Brown: 8 m, Grade 2.

This short route is visible from the old Mt McKay ski area on the lower band of rock (see photo). The big icicle was sun damaged and considerably smaller than when the photo was taken on March 28th. We climbed the attached sloping ice to the left.

On the second photo the new route Precision is just barely visible above and to the left.
 
Electric Sunshine (Upper Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 25, 2011
Report:Paul Berger & Rod Brown: 20 m, Grade 2+. This climb is about 100 m further along the ridge SE of Harper's Downfall, also under a power line and partly hidden by trees. A big yellow patch of ice suggested the name. A nice climb with good protection.

Approach as for Harper's Downfall. Lat and Long: 49 degrees 18'06.67" N,  88 degrees 19'18.91" W
 
Harper's Downfall (Upper Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 25th
Report:Rod Brown & Paul Berger: 25 m, Grade 4: Go straight up. A great route.

Pine Portage trail begins about 500 m south of the dam on Forgan Lake at the end of Hwy 585. Where it crosses under the power lines turn south. You'll see the top of the route; it's about 500 m following the power lines to the route.

Rod placed 5 screws as the route went from near vertical to vertical, then one more after reaching a step near the top. Stemming gets a little bit of weight off your arms, but not much. Rod climbs leashless; leashed, I just barely followed.

Lat & Long: 49 degrees 18'07.38" N,  88 degrees 19'18.39 W
 
Left Turn Not in Safety (Upper Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 25th
Report:Rod Brown & Paul Berger: Grade 3, 25 m: Start on the vertical pillar then turn left, protecting with a sling around the small tree above. Once the left is negotiated the angle eases. Cruise up and a bit left to a good belay tree.

The climb is directly across the very small frozen bay from Eaglet, Bike'n'Ice & Edgewater Ice, on the inside of what is called Bowerman Point on the Orient Bay 50,000 topo. Canoe approach as for Edgewater Ice near the end of Hwy 585. Long 7 Lat: 49 degrees 17'48.04 N,  88 degrees 18'59.10" W.
 
Edgewater Ice (Upper Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 25, 2011
Report:Paul Berger, Jaime Anderson, Rod Brown: Grade 2+, 20 m: This route is just left of Bike'n'Ice (the photo shows Bike'n'Ice in the middle, Eaglet on the right, and Edgewater Ice on the left). Second photo shows Jaime on his second iceclimb.

Climb towards the log across the route. Just below the log traverse right, finishing on snow covered rocky steps to a prominent pine tree belay.

Approach pulling a canoe in the Pine Portage trail that starts about 500 m south of the transformer station at the Forgan Lake dam. The climb is about 300 m south of the Island Portage trail on river left on the 50,000 Orient Bay topo map. The coordinates are: 49 degrees 17'48.11" N,  88 degrees 18'52.47 W
 
Throne Room (Sleeping Giant)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 12, 2011
Report:Rod Brown & Paul Berger. Grade 3 +, 60 metres.

The first 40 metres is easy rolling ice and snowfields. The last section starts steep to a cave that requires some tricky moves onto thin ice to get around. Rod placed a very small cam and small nut for excellent protection in the middle and high up on the right  in the cave.

This climb is in the gully at the Thunder Bay Lookout on the Sleeping Giant, 3 km from Thunder Cape, facing west. It's directly across the peninsula from the Old Chimney. The location is spectacular.

Andrew Haill, Helle, my dad and I were in about 5 years ago. Andrew and I rappelled in and climbed out, but there was a waterfall and little ice on the steepest section so I bypassed on the steppy rock to the right, and Helle had me on toprope. That day there was fog and we decided 'Throne Room' was fitting if we ever got back to lead it, since the location is majestic. The late mountaineer Galen Rowell wrote a book called "In the throne room of the mountain gods" about the first American attempt on K2.

I tried to bike to the climb last year, but bad ice slowed us and time ran out. Rod and I paddled 13 km from Silver Islet around Thunder Cape. It took an hour to ascend to the base of the climb from the ice shelf, and about 2.5 hours each way by kayak.
 
Shawn of The Living (Whitefish Lake)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:11-Feb-2011
Report:WI4, 30 meters
FA:Wes Bender, Shawn Morgan

The route, #2 in the photo, starts as a hanging curtain and climbs near vertical ice for 5 meters or so until it starts to ramp back a tad. Climb a series of vertical and near vertical steps until the ice ends in a very tiny chimney. I found good gear for the most part but did manage to tag some rock with 2 15s. The ice got thicker the higher you went. I ended it here because there were only 2 moves or so, on absolute crap rock with no gear to protect against hitting the last bulge if a fall were to occur, only to arrive at a questionable belay tree. I figured this would be the logical place to end the route. V-thread out.

Even though it only gets WI4 I think the commitment level would be a little higher as the amount of v-thread able ice is very limited unless you stop a few meters lower.

The name: My former climbing partner, good friend, and former section member Shawn Morgan was in town for a climbing visit. He hasn’t climbed anything significant since he left 6 years ago. He kept saying how alive he felt and how good it felt to be on the ice again. Him and I are big movie buffs and are big on the movie quotes. So while yaking about movies that night, Shawn of The Dead comes up and we agreed it was one of the best zombie flicks. The route name came to me the next day while driving to Kama.
 
Lookout Cathedral (Sibley Penninsula)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 7th 2010
Report:Grade 2 +, 32 m:  Climbed with Andrew Haill. Approach was 8 km across Lake Superior from Lambert Island via the west end of Caribou Island, then up the talus slope. (Use caution, be knowledgeable, and carry safety gear when travelling on lake ice). The climb is hard to spot as it's hidden in a chasm that's angled relative to the cliffs. This route is about 50 m south of the Thunder Bay Lookout cantilevered observation platform. Named for the Lookout and the amazing 3m x 3m x 3m ice cave that was almost invisible from the outside and had icicles reminiscent of a cathedral from the inside. Photos are of the climb from Lake Superior and of Andrew Haill seconding.
 
Pine River Falls (Pine River(HWY 61))
Submitted by:Warren Pringle
Climbed on:April 11, 2008
Report:

A paddling friend told me that I might want to explore this area, He had seen running water here before. Carlin Val and I set out to find it. It turned out to be pretty sweet, about 30m of 3+ ice. The Pine River crosses HWY 61 about 200m south of Memory Road, another 50m south is a road (on the west side) with a gate that leads to an old Nickel mine, park here and hike the road for about 2km. Around this point the river can be seen through the trees, walk to the edge and you will be at the top of the climb. On a satellite picture, the climb is located on an almost 90 degree bend in the river that seems to be meters from the mine road.

This climb is on private property so please leave only foot prints. As of right now there is no problem with climbers on the property but the littlest thing can revoke that privilege.

 
Connected (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 11th, 2009
Report:20 m Gr 3:  Rod Brown & Paul Berger:  Andrew Haill spotted this one high above the river. It was quite a project to get to in warm, deep corn snow. A steep start and then rambling back to a good belay tree. All of these climbs were approached by canoe, pulled 1.3 km down the portage trail below the Pine Portage Dam at the top of 585. The water is fast moving just below the put-in but slows as the river widens.
 
Nipigon Timber (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 11th, 2009
Report:15 m  Gr 2:  Paul Berger & Rod Brown:  This pretty climb ended with a bushwack at the top. On the west bank,  north of Outfoxed at about 403400 E & 5459800 N.
 
Bike'n Ice (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 11th, 2009
Report:25 m   Gr 4:  Rod Brown and Paul Berger:  Steep, sustained and brittle with huge dinner plates. This climb is at the head of the little bay between Island Portage and Bowerman Point on the Orient Bay 50,000 topo. It's almost straight across the river from the end of the portage trail. The name comes from the mode of travel. Rod was due at my place at 7 am. He showed up by bike at 7:03 am with climbing gear on the back rack.
 
Eaglet (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 11th, 2009
Report:20 m  2+   Paul Berger & Rod Brown:  Amazingly brittle ice for mid-April, this took good screws. Just right of Bike'n Ice.
 
Tripleon Nipigon (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 5th, 2009
Report:25 m  gr 1,2,3  Paul Berger & Andrew Haill:  This one looked pretty short but proved to be really fun. Right from the ice shelf by the river, we climbed a grade 2 route (photo) then the central vertical pillar and the easy ramble up the left side. Andrew thought the name could have a double meaning; though we didn't trip, we both took ice in the face. This one is about a kilometre downriver from Darwin's climbs at about 403500 E 5459300 N.
 
Outfoxed (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 5th, 2009
Report:15 m  1+  Paul Berger & Andrew Haill:   This climb looked nice but was 3 pitches of thigh deep snow and a very little piece of ice. We saw fox tracks in the ice at the top. This one's on the west side of the river at about 403200 E & 5459500 N.
 
Darwin's Son (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 3, 2009
Report:30m  3+   Rod Brown and Paul Berger: An excellent route with good protection. Much more ice than when I first saw the route in 2004 and 2005. This climb is perhaps 500 m south of White Pine Sentinel, right beside Darwin's Illusion. They're due south of a small island on the 50,000 topo at about 403900 E 5460300 N.
 
Windfall (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 7th, 2009
Report:Grade 2+, 20 m: Paul Berger & Rod Brown: A steppy route with good protection and two caves. This area is visible from just east of the Pass Lake Esso on the cliffs to the east (left) of the train trestle. The larger icefall is also visible from the road to Pass Lake. Park under the bridge. Follow the bridge and then the tracks for about 100 m. Veer sharp left and bushwack to a snowmobile trail. Follow it to an old logging road. Go left, but the road soon swings right and traverses under the cliffs and below the climbs. The approach took about one hour. I haven't seen this ice before; it may only form from melt, but it is hard to see as it's in shadow until the sun hits it in late afternoon, so it may form every year.
 
Trestle Bowl (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 7th, 2009
Report:Grade 3, 10 m: Rod Brown and Paul Berger: This climb is about 30 m east of the Windfall/Heather's Pillar area. From the road it looks substantial, but much of it is a snowfield. A bowl of perhaps 20 m, all covered in yellow ice, Rod took the steepest and longest option, putting in three screws on amazingly brittle ice just to work his arms.
 
Milk and Honey (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 7th, 2009
Report:Grade 2, 20 m: Paul Berger and Rod Brown: This climb is 10 m left of Heather's Pillar, past a big rock wall. A beautiful colourful climb with yellow ice in a bookend and whiter, thinner ice on the face.
 
Heather's Pillar (Pass Lake)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 7th, 2009
Report:Grade 4, 20 m : Rod Brown and Paul Berger: Approach as for Windfall. This is 10 m to the left. It was chandeliered with water running in the middle. It was strong but the screws hit lots of air. From below it looked less vertical with the possibility of jamming against the rock, but that wasn't really possible. I could just barely second with leashes! Two daggers are just touching down to the right. If they grow substantially they would be nice routes.
 
Kinda Lost In Trees (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:29-Mar-2009
Report:Kinda Lost In Trees
WI2+, 75 Metres - FA: Wes Bender, Nick Buda

We beat around the bush for what seemed like an hour without any sight of IT. We knew we were in the right area, but the bush was too thick. At one point we started doubting IT’s existence. But alas, we pressed on. Nick said “I think IT is to the right” “No I’m sure IT is to the left.” I replied. We went left but IT wasn’t there; so we decided maybe Nick was correct and we went right. I was out in front, as I usually am when in search of new stuff, and suddenly there IT was. IT was right in front of our noses the whole time, hiding in a deep slot under the cover of the bush. It took both of us to find IT. Teamwork always pays off, when looking for IT, and makes for a good time! We should have brought our wives with us as they would have shown us where IT was.

In present condition there is no snow on the route at all and there is 75 metres of plastic WI2+ ice climbing. If you are looking for a fun day before the season ends give this a go.
Hike as per Powerline Falls. Once at the ice turn right and hike the summer hiking trail to the right. The trail is easy to follow. Once past some large boulders start really paying attention to the cliff line. The route is very difficult to find. If you go in the next few days you should be able to follow our tracks.
Bring snow shoes and a small handful of screws. We did not leave an anchor so if you want to get down you can build a v-thread. Do not trust the thread that we left as we pulled our rope through it already. It may be compromised.
 
Exactly pi (Pie Island)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 15th, 2009
Report:Grade 2, 8 m.  Rod Brown & Paul Berger.  This climb is named for it's immense vertical, 3.1459 metres. We were trying to climb Pie in the Sky which turned out to be 100 m further down the coast and washed out. The Lake ice was out so we were following the ice shelf and I steered us incorrectly up this route, some poor ice over the lowest cliff bands. After slogging in deep snow up the gully above I realized my error and apologized to Rod. You won't want to find this one, but it's at 344100 & 5342100 two kilometres east of Greenstone Point on the south shore of Pie Island.
 
Piecicle (Pie Island)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 14th, 2009
Report:Easy Grade 2, 20 m.  Paul Berger & Rod Brown.   At 345100 & 5343500, this route is on the south side of the inland lake accessible from the northeast corner of Dawson Bay. The climb is about 3/4 of the way down the lake on the south side. The lake is a 1.5 km snowshoe east from the corner of Dawson Bay. First seen by Andrew Haill in 2001, the route was snow free with water cascading down it's over 50 m length. Last week with snow cover, only the top section was really an iceclimb. We joked that for each metre of climb we had spent an hour on approach. This would be a classic beginner route if it was a bit closer...
 
China Closet (M5 WI5+ 60m) (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Dave Rone
Climbed on:March 14, 2009
Report:

FA:  Dave Rone, Wes Bender

Wes has an eye for the ephemeral line alright!  This delicate route lies about 50m south of Trickle Trunk.  Sketch up 15 m of sparsely protected rock, ice, and snow, to ice thick enough for your first screw.  25m of sustained ice then takes you to a welcome rest stance, right below the obvious ice-choked overhang (crux).  From here, a few hard moves gets you to easier terrain above the overhang.  We found it best to be gentle with ice here, the more you swing, the less you have to work with!   Finish up with another 20m of mostly ice to a cedar tree.This approach was a beast!  The snow was deep, sugary, and unconsolidated.  Tough even in snowshoes, except when you're following Wes of course!

Overall a fun, engaging route!  And when combined with Trickle Trunk and Running with Scissors, you'll have a GREAT day!

 
Zone of Proximal Development (Mink Mtn Lake Superior)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:February 22, 2009
Report:Grade 2, 25 m  Paul Berger, Zhiish MacKenzie, David Bradner

This south-facing climb overlooks Lake Superior and Spar Island. It's about 1.2 km west of Mink Point. You need to be out a bit on the lake to see it. It's 5 minutes from the shore through easy bush.

An mostly easy steppy climb - good for older people (me) and those who haven't climbed for a while (Zhiish) or ever (David). Helle Moeller was our support team.


 
Chills'n'Thrills Wall (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:6/7-Dec-2008
Report:Chills ‘n’ Thrills Wall is located on the same cliff as the Ice Palace but way left of any existing routes. Closer to Amy R than the Ice Palace. The reason these routes remain open for so many years is the idea of the approach. Since Dave and I would always say, “We really need to go up there and climb those routes on of these days.” I started scouting the approach. I suggested the approach we took and It wasn’t half bad. Without a trail, it took us about 45 mins from the Ice Palace parking lot. Today, with a trail, it took only 25 minutes. There are 4 possible routes with 3 of which completed. The last M route needs to be cleaned otherwise a ground up attempt might be a little spicey. I am afraid by the time I get up there to clean it and throw in the bolts needed to get on the ice the route will have detached totally and be unsafe to climb. It is starting to detach now and there are no signs of any water anywhere. This area may not last much longer. It forms every year though so there is always next year.
 
Exercise the Demons (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:6-Dec-2008
Report:Exercise the Demons
35m WI6-
FA Dave Rone, Wes Bender
Yes we mean “exercise” and not “exorcize”, as in stick’em on a treadmill and work’em hard…
In present condition, a mitt full of 10s, 13s, and 15s will get you to the top.
This is the next route right of Chills ‘n’ Thrills. This starts as a thin over hanging tangle of detached icicles and 3D ice. The pro here was difficult to get and small. Dave was able to get enough in to keep going with confidence. Now you are mostly vertical but fighting the pump is the challenge. The pro was there but it was difficult to find a comfortable stance to get it in. A few more metres of this and the climb leans back to easier ground to the finish. No rap anchor here, walk over to the established rap station above ‘Razors In The Sand Box’
 
Chills'n'Thrills (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:7-Dec-2008
Report:Chills ‘n’ Thrills
35m WI5+
FA Dave Rone, Wes Bender
In present condition, a mitt full of 10s, 13s, and 15s will get you to the top.
This is the left most climb on the Chills ‘n’ Thrills Wall. This climb surprised us. It was way steeper and much more difficult than anticipated. Compound that with very cold, hard, brittle ice and your in for a bone chilling good time. Even though my ropes came from the top I found it very awkward and sustained. Not to forget delicate. The first half of the route is the crux. Semi detached with a short curtain to surmount before the climb leans back a tad and thins out.
Rappel the route via a tree anchor at the top
 
The Wet Stuff, WI 4+, 30m (OB)
Submitted by:Bryce Brown
Climbed on:March 21, 2008
Report:The Wet Stuff, WI 4+, 30m
FA Bryce Brown, Nick Buda, Jenn Chikoski

To the right of the right stuff (HUGE this year) are some hanginfg daggars. The furthest left of these actually touches down as a pure ice route in a rocky corner. Ramble easily up the thin ice WI2 ramp, then about 15m up the thin featured, VERY WET pillar in the corner. New rap station. Take the full goretex and scuba mask if its warm out! We were soaked to the undies!

Photo barely shows the route hiding in the corner behind the pine tree, heading up into a groove not visable from the road.

 
Thunder & Lightning (Sleeping Giant Provincial Park)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 21, 2008
Report:

Climbed with Rod Brown. 20 m, Grade 4.

This climb is visible from Silver Islet, the Sea Lion, and the bridge on the Kabeyun Trail. It's in the middle of Thunder Mountain below a dense copse of cedar trees. It's several hundred metres to the right of 'Bark of Thor' (which is only visible from Shuniah Lake). In most years a lightning-like dagger grows down. This year the ice is great and three main pillars formed. We climbed the obvious middle line.

Head in the Kabeyun Trail and bushwack to Shuniah Lake. Cross the lake and head into the bush and up toward the cliffs and talus slopes. Snowshoe parallel to the cliffs until you're under the climb, then ascend the gully to the base. The approach took us two hours on a trail I set last week. Photo one is Rod rapping down. Photo two is Rod scrabling to one of the ice caves with a view of the mouth of Black Bay in the background.

 
Brian and Wes's Bogus Journey (Whitefish Lake Area)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:8-Mar-2008
Report:WI3 40 Metres
FA: Brian Bottan, Wes Bender
About 30 metres to the left of Brian and Wes’s Excellent Adventure is another chute of ice. It starts as a vertical curtain of ice that ramps off to the top. There is lots of brush so watch your eyes. Again, not likely you will see us here again either. Not all FA’s are plums!
 
Wes and Brian's Excellent Adventure (Whitefish Lake Area)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:8-Mar-2008
Report:WI4/M4 25 Metres
FA: Wes Bender, Brian Bottan
You can access this route via East Arrow Lake road. Drive the road until you see the ice up on your right. A short shoe in will get you to the approach ice. WI2 ice, easily soloed to gain access to the upper cliff. This route started as steep WI4 ice that ends before the cliff does. We thought we could see some potential to pound a few pins to protect the last 8 metres of dry tooling. We were wrong. Once on the rock I found no protection at all. The climbing felt pretty secure on M4 terrain. It ramps off to a low angle slawg to a rap station on the right. Most likely NOT going to catch us in there anytime soon accept to scope out potential rock climbing. Descend from any number of large trees. We never fixed a bomber rap station as we don't think anyone will want to repeat it anyway.
 
Run of the Mill (Red Rock)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:March 8th, 2008
Report:

Paul Berger & Robin Sare:  25m, Grade 3+


This climb forms in a cleft on cliffs beyond the Red Rock Mill. We approached with caution across Lake Superior, perhaps 2 km. In a good year the top is visible from the Nip-Rock trail (not this year).


The bottom was thin, over a big chock stone, and then up a big ramp (photo 1). The crux was thicker ice that formed a stairway to the left but was very awkward (photo 2).


Short screws that bottomed out, a Trango #3 (28mm) active cam, and two knifeblades were the bottom protection, with longer screws up higher.


Thanks to the Alpine Club for this website!


Paul

 
Purgatory (Paradice)
Submitted by:Matt Giambrone
Climbed on:2/2/2008
Report:

Purgatory WI 5+ 55M, FA Matt Giambrone and Dean Einerson

Perhaps the most interesting route in all of Paradice, it required three attempts beginning in 2004 to complete this route. On the first attempt the lower 20 meters of ice was completely detached from the wall, the second attempt was futile as the route had not formed ( it was a generally poor season throughout Kama Bay that year). The final trip in found the route significantly thinner than the first attempt but not unreasonable. The route can be route a few hundred meters to the left of the route The Blythely Way approach from the north per the directions in Superior Ice. The approach from the end of this years plowing takes approximately three hours when breaking trail allow about 2 hours if the road is plowed to the parking area and no trail is broken. The Gurney Lake topo map (Sheet 42 E/4) may be useful in locating this and other Paradice routes. The base of the route is found at UTM coordinates 0431588 E 5434032 N.

Climb somewhat thin vertical cauliflower ice which thickens as you proceed to a small awkward ledge at approximately half height. From here one can make a long reach in order to get a good stick above the likely fracture line of the delicate freestanding pillar. Continue up the vertical to gently overhanging pillar to the slung spruce on the left. The usual selection of screws including 10cm is suggested. A few small to medium cams may provide additional protection provided the verglas has melted out.

 
VERTICALLY ORIENTED (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Matt Giambrone
Climbed on:2/3/08
Report:50M WI 5 FA: Matt Giambrone and Dean Einerson 2/3/2008
An amazing pillar of ice that I believe will rarely form get after it!  The route shares the initial ice of Getting Oriented before climbing an obvious freestanding pillar to the left.  In the 8 or so years that I have climbed extensively in Kama Bay I have never seen this route form as anything other than an anemic dagger that would require significant drytooling to reach.  The pillar is fractured across nearly its entire width just below the point where it joins the rock so climb with care.  Good gear (eventually) and stemming rests can be had by climbing along the right edge of the pillar.  The left side had not yet touched down but was quite wet so I suspect this route will continue to grow and may be around for the remainder of the season.  This was a great ending to a great weekend of climbing.
 
Tombsickle (Squaw Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:April 10
Report:10 metres WI2+
F.A. Matt Adams, Kyle Brooks
Visible from the graveyard area in Squaw Bay, begin the approach by walking around the fence of the graveyard. Alot of the work to this climb is in the approach itself. You ascend through a mossy gully that is visible from the road, lines up rougly with the cross. Ascend the gully does get very steep towards the top. Head right following along the bottom of the second rock band until you reach the climb.
 
Jumping Wolf (Sleeping Giant Provincial Park)
Submitted by:Paul Berger
Climbed on:April 8th, 2007
Report:13 m Grade 2+ Paul Berger, Andrew Haill, Helle Moeller.
Approach was about 11 km around Marie Louise Lake, down the Burma Trail, then down Twinpine Lakes Trail to Lake Superior, then about 1 km north along the shore. Andrew Haill and I saw this route from Clavet Point after skating from Lambert Island. After we examined it we continued towards Hoorigan Point and saw two wolves. One disappeared and the other watched us for a while, jumping vertically twice to try to smell us.

Great to see all your photos and routes everyone!
 
Divine Intervention (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:10-Apr-2007
Report:WI5+ 40 metres
F.A. Wes Bender, Randy Hyvarinen
This route is located on the blank wall that separates Hussy's Onus and Contemplation.
On the first attempt at this route on Sunday, I tried it without 22s. I was soaked and ice began to accumulate on my gloves and tools, making it hard for me to hang on. Better judgement won over and I tucked my tail between my legs and headed down. We went back 2 days later to find the water had stopped flowing and the ice had thickened up a bit more.
Start by climbing the steep pillar getting what ever gear you can get. I was able to get 3 decent 22s. I probably would not have felt good only placing 19s or smaller. Climb this 90 degree pillar for about 15 metres to a good rest. Shake'em out here because the business starts here. 95 degree ice for 15 metres until it ramps off at the top.
As my disclaimer I may have sandbagged the rating a little. I still don't consider myself a WI6 climber so I have a hard time grading very hard routes. Be warned this route was real fricken hard. Most likely WI6- but to avoid looking like an over rater I will leave it at WI5+. Before I scare most of you off, it was also extremely fun climbing and worth a go, if it ever forms again.
 
Dawg Slawg (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:6-Apr-2007
Report:F.A. Wes Bender, Randy Hyvarinen
100 metres WI2+ (With a 15 metre WI4 crux)
Walk in towards Groove Tube. You will see this route in a slot on the right had wall about 1/2 way to Groove Tube. The route starts at the creek bed. If you go try this route in the next few days, try to avoid walking on the creek bed, we fell through a number of times.
Start by climbing WI2 ice for 40 meters to the first steep bump. This gets you to the steep WI4 crux pillar. It fracture before I got established so I had to get into the groove on its right side. It was awkward climbing but really cool. Get over this section and you have another 45 meters of WI2+ climbing. Again if you go soon, watch out most of the low angle ice has a false layer and did not support my PHAT ass. This time we really did bring our snow shoes and it saved about a week of slogging through deep snow.
 
The Boys are Back in Town (Mt. Mcrae)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Dec. 05
Report:on the large wall of ice we took the easiest looking line.. Will's lead is the stongest ive seen in those -35 conditions.. we only had that day to have at er.. two routes followed in the following days.. I think it is the most epic ice climbing, fun for all one upping of serious saught after routes in the tbay region since parent first stuck pawns in ice.. it ended with a Loveridge/Backes route.. Wild!!

The Boys are Back in Town
WI 5+, 70m
FA: Will Mienen, Brandon Pullan
P1: climb the steep pillar to ledge
P2: climb the iced chimney to top

AWESOME TIME
 
Cuddle Slut, The Lighthouse, Steep Wave (Back of Mt. Rose??)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Jan. 06
Report:Three 30m routes were climbed. All fun.
FA: Noel Gingrich, Brandon Pullan

Cuddle Slut, 30m. WI 3
The left hand route, up ramp to pillar

Steep Wave, 30m. WI 4
Middle line. Thin in places, stubbies!!

The Lighthouse, 30m WI 3, 5.8
Right hand line. Up steep iced slabs to chimney.. FUN

Desent.. rap routes
 
Snow Angel (Crescent Lake)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Dec. 05
Report:at the end of the lake on the rite hand side is a 50m WI 3.
Climb curtain to ramp and top out on treed ledge
rap route

FA: Derek Patola, Brandon Pullan
 
Will the Wolf Survive (Orient Bay- North Valley)
Submitted by:brandon pullan
Climbed on:Dec. 05
Report:FA: Patola, Pullan
A long fun route. Start beneath the large roofs near end of valley
P1. Climb steep (WI 2+) gully to 5.8 rock band (60m)
P2. Traverse left on snow ledge (30m)
P3. Climb WI 3 ramp (20m)
P4. Climb steep WI 4+ pillar (30m)

two 60m rappels get you down.
 
Doomsday (Orient Bay (Wall Of Doom))
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:6-Jan-2006
Report:WI 6 55 Meters FA: Dave Rone, Wes Bender
Doomsday is the last of the remaining BIG lines on the Wall of Doom. When Nick and I opened the wall in the spring of 2004 we originally wanted this line. It proved unprotect able and dangerous so we did Mythophobia instead. This line is 40 metres right of a new line that went up a few weeks ago, call Nickophobia.
Climb the very thin ice stemming back on the rock wall on the left until such time as you have to commit to the thin ice totally. 6 meters of this and you will get to what NOW is a fixed stopper on the rock wall on the right. Climb the series of awkward curtain and thin ice to an overhang. You can protect the over hang with a big stopper and a .75 camalot. Pull up and on to the curtains with delicate tools. The ice is thin above.
The rest of the climb stays in your face with very tough, gymnastic moves on 3D ice. I found very few opportunities for rest. The protection was good when you needed it, but you would need to feel comfortable running some of it out before attempting this route. Descent the route via a new anchor on the tree at the top.
Gear: various ice screws, .75 camalot, stoppers (first one already fixed)
 
KamaSutra (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:10-Dec-2005
Report:WI 5+ R 60 Meters FA: Dave Rone, Wes Bender, Brian Bottan
This was a fantastic WI 5 plus R line that stretched a full 60 metres. This route is located above Grandy Mardy Falls and 10 meters to the right of International Incident. Climb the verglass start for 10 metres with NO pro until a small ledge. You may be able to sling a sickle here. Tackle a small curtain and then up onto the rampy thin section. This section took pro to 13 cm. You arrive at the crux of the route, a small dagger that looked like it could snap off with the force of the wind let alone a climber trying to negotiate his way up it. After finishing this section you climb very steep, sustained, and featured ice to the 6 foot umbrella at the top. You can bypass this umbrella on the left. Be careful the ice here is thin. Exit the route via a rappel anchor set up back on a tree. 2 60 metre ropes will get you down.
 
Cold Fusion (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:14-Jan-2006
Report:WI4 + 30 metres FA:Wes Bender, Brian Bottan
For those of you who know the area this climb is a narrow chute 20 metres left of the Wailling Wall. Climb the steep ice finding great gear throughout. The middle has a tree that is easily by-passed. The last 10 feet climbs on the curtain that didn't sound too angry when you hit it. Belay off the tree at the top. Descend the route via a new anchor on the biggest tree in the middle of the wall. You can't miss it.
 
Just Step Around (AKA: Wild Wild Wes) (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:29-Jan-2006
Report:WI 5- 30 Meters FA: Dave Rone, Wes Bender, Brian Bottan
(Private Property) Off Couch road in South Gillies Ontario. Just Step Around is the last of the hard routes left to do out at the Wailling Wall Area. It is located in a open booked corner to the left of Hook and Ladder.
Climb the thin WI4 plus ice up to the messy ice just below the big umbrella. This is where the fun starts. Using hooks and blind placements you need to negotiate around this umbrella/dagger. Before Dave started into this sequence he said aloud... "all I have to do now is Just Step Around". Brian and I both laughed thinking Yeah right, Thats all you have to do. No one was laughing when it came time for us to pull through this section. Anyway the name may sound dumb to those who don't know the story. So there it is. The AKA part. Dave originally thought we should call it Wild Wild Wes. As funny as we thought the name would be, I could not accept the amount of flack I would take for such a name so we AKAed it instead.
 
Hook and Ladder (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:15-Jan-2006
Report:WI 3+ 30 Meters FA: Wes Bender, Brian Bottan
This climb is about 8 metres left of the Wailling Wall. On the other side of the rock buttress. Climb what looks like grade 3 climbing from the ground. Quickly turns into very hard WI3+ or WI4- climbing. I found it very awkward climbing through the crux at the 1/3 mark. The rest of the climb goes somewhat awkward as well. Pro was good but thin down low. I managed to hit rocks with a 15 cm screw. Look up to see a very ominous looking umbrella lurking over head. Don't even sneeze or this sucker may give your Cranium Protection Unit a good test. Belay off the tree above. Descend the via the established anchor
 
Wailling Wall Arete (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:14-Jan-2006
Report:WI4 30 Meters FA:Brian Bottan, Wes Bender
This climb has almost the same GPS coordinates at Wailling Wes Side but climbs on the front of the arete instead of behind it. A note on Wailling Wes Side. When I originally put this up there was 2 distinct routes Wailling Wall WI4+ then Wailling Wes Side WI3+ which climbed on the left but behind the arete and finishing through the trees. Now these 2 route are one in the same. No real distinction between them. Wild impassable 10 foot umbrella guards the summit of both routes. So Wailling Wall Arete climbs the front of the arete. No real thought process involved. We described it as straight forward steep climbing. There was a tree out of the ice that needed to be dealt with but Brian managed to show it who wearing the crampons. Great gear throughout. Descend via the established anchor.
 
Dirty Laundry (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:29-Jan-2006
Report:WI 4- 30 Meters FA: Wes Bender, Brian Bottan, Dave Rone
(Private Property) Off Couch road in South Gillies Ontario. Dirty Laundry starts as Hope's Umbrellas but trends left, behind the rock butress that separates Wailling Wall and Hope's Umbrellas.
Climb the rampy ice to a frozen bush or tree feature. Climb over this and keep trending left untill you are standing on to of the rock butress. You will now climb straight up from here between the 2 huge umbrellas over the Wailling Wall and Hope's Umbrellas. The pro was good enough to keep me going. I found the top out very awkward but I may have started the sequence wrong. Who knows. It was still a pretty fun line.
 
Anger Management (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:15
Report:WI 4 30 Meters FA:Wes Bender, Brian Bottan
This route is on the far left of Hopes Umbrellas. It took me 2 cracks to bag this route. I attempted it on Saturday in the bitter cold morning. the climb told me otherwise. The crux is the top. You are climbing the outer rim of a curtain on the right of the huge umbrella. On Saturday when I hit it with my left tool, the entire thing fractured. Gave me the willies so I came down. What I didn't know was the curtain on my right tool actually was more solid then originally thought. So on the second attempt, in more favourable temps, I used the right curtain for pro. The top out was very awkward, almost sent me off. After pulling the top of the curtain you are now standing on top of the huge umbrella, At one point I heard a crack. I must have jumped 6 feet straight up. Belay off the established rap anchor mentioned above. Great gear found throughout.
 
Aroma Therapy (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:15-Jan-2006
Report:WI 3 30 Meters FA: Brian Bottan, Wes Bender
This climb stars on the face to the right of Short Fuse. Climb the 80 degree ice to a big platform. Head through the trees and climb the ice to the top. Low angle ice from here on. Stop and take a wiff. This route had a really nice spruce fragrance to it, hence the name. Good gear throughout.
 
Bad Attitude (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:15-Jan-2006
Report:WI 3+ 30 Meters FA: Brian Bottan, Wes Bender
This route is 6 feet right of Anger Management next to the stack of huge blocks. Climb easy ice until you get about 1/2 way then start going right behind the stack of huge blocks. Knowing the 2 step might come in handy. very tight. Climb the series of hollow sounding bulges to the top. Belay off the tree at the top. Descend via the established anchor. Gear was good.
 
Short Fuse (South Gillies)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:15-Jan-2006
Report:WI 3+ 30 Meters FA:Brian Bottan, Wes Bender
Climbs the right side of the stack of huge blocks. The climb starts as a vertical pillar. 15 feet of pigeon toe climbing to a nice rest. Work your way left behind the blocks and finish on Bad Attitude. Good gear on the pillar.
 
Near Death Experience (Fish Hatchery Rd)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:1-Feb-2003
Report:WI 4 FA: 20 Meters Wes Bender, Shawn Morgan
Turn onto Fish Hatchery Rd from highway 11/17 and follow until Cold Water drive. Turn right on Coldwater Drive and follow until Spring Creek Road. Turn right and follow until Wolf Lake Rd. Your going to make a right onto Wolf Lake Rd. and follow for 7 kms(just Past Wolf Lake) You will see a road on your left. If you stop and look to about 10 o'clock you should catch a glimpse of this climb. We turned onto this road and parked a little ways in and then hiked into the climb. The approach is decent and took about 15 mins.
The climb started out as a 1 foot wide smear of ice going about 2 inches thick. Climb that surprisingly technical section until the ice widens out. I was able to final get some short pro in here. Continue up the vertical ice to the trees above.
 
Grim Reaper (Fish Hatchery Rd)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:1-Feb-2003
Report:WI 3+ FA: 20 Meters Wes Bender, Shawn Morgan
Turn onto Fish Hatchery Rd from highway 11/17 Cold Water drive. Turn right on Coldwater Drive and follow until Spring Creek Road. Turn left and go to the end. Make a right onto Valley road and drive approx. 1/2 kms until you see a turn off into an open field. Turn into this clearing and drive. Unless the snow is too deep then you will have to hoof it. If you drive past some junk cars, youre on the right path. Stop just past the last of the junkers and look to your left. You will see 1 climb and maybe 2 of you look hard enough. One does not top out and remains unclimbed. That would be the climb on the left. The climb on the right is formed as a narrow detached pillar with some wicked daggers on the left side. The climb is broken into 2 sections; a vertical section on a detached pillar leading into some trees and then another shorter vertical section leading to the top belay trees.
The reason for the morbid naming is because of the shear terror it inflicted on both Shawn and myself. A gnarly chunk, the size of a small truck, blew off while Shawn was seconding it. I could almost smell him coming. hahaha Plus while I was leading I soiled myself topping out the first section. The damn trees are a pain in the ass. Some pretty funky moves though. After that it was pretty much smooth sailing up a 15 foot vertical face that was well bonded to the rock. It only took 13 cm screws, but still was not as scary as the first section.
 
Shawnsolo (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:16-Mar-2003
Report:WI 3+ FA: Shawn MORGAN (all caps)
Above Powerline falls in Kama Bay Ontario. It is a pretty long but enjoyable day to get into this climb. You must first climb Powerline Falls or use the walk around trail (where is the fun in that?). After finishing Powerline Falls you can hike up the frozen creek until you start to see some ice forming down the right wall of the gully. This route is located on the right wall at the base of the first set of bulges in the creek. It is hard to explain this route but it is almost facing up stream, on an arete. It formed as a 90 degree, 15 metre section of daggered ice that topped out into some rocks and snow.
I didn't even realize Shawn was climbing until he was halfway up. He soloed this route. He said it wasn't as bad as it looked. Probably still should have roped up though. This route is illustrated by the letter D in the photo. Belay trees can be found anywhere or you could even down climb the creek as it is only grade 2 ice at best.
 
Samson gets A Haircut (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:16-Mar-2003
Report:WI 4 FA: Wes Bender, Shawn Morgan, Andrea Bender
Above Powerline falls in Kama Bay Ontario. It is a pretty long but enjoyable day to get into this climb. You must first climb Powerline Falls or use the walk around trail (where is the fun in that?). After finishing Powerline Falls you can hike up the frozen creek until you start to see some ice forming down the right wall of the gully.
This route is located on top of the largest bulge in the creek. This bulge might require you to rope up. This route is an obvious grade 4 line straight up a vertical column of ice on the left of 12 Labours of Herakles. The ice was great and protection was easy to get. It is too bad this route is only 20 metres because it would be another Kama Bay classic. This route is illustrated by the letter A in the photo
 
12 Labours of Herakles (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:16-Mar-2003
Report:WI 3 FA: 20 Meters Shawn Morgan, Wes Bender, Andrea Bender
Above Powerline falls in Kama Bay Ontario. It is a pretty long but enjoyable day to get into this climb. You must first climb Powerline Falls Or use the walk around trail (where is the fun in that?). After finishing Powerline Falls you can hike up the frozen creek until you start to see some ice forming down the right walls.
The route starts at the top of the second bulge in the creek up stream from Shawn's solo route. It flows down the right wall of the gully. This route will be split in the middle by a small rock arete. Both halves will join at the top and finish in the same spot. The route is 20 metres in length and is illustrated by letter B in the photo. Belay trees can be found anywhere. You can also down climb the creek if you would rather not rappel.
 
3 Heads of Cerberus (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:16-Mar-2003
Report:WI 3+ FA: 25 Meters Wes Bender, Shawn Morgan, Andrea Bender
Above Powerline falls in Kama Bay Ontario. It is a pretty long but enjoyable day to get into this climb. You must first climb Powerline Falls Or use the walk around trail (where is the fun in that?). After finishing Powerline Falls you can hike up the frozen creek until you start to see some ice forming down the right wall of the gully. Instead of continuing into the gully you can now start hiking the base of the cliff until you come to the third ice formation. There will be a thick buffer of trees between you and the start of the climb. You will know you are at this climb if you can see the top section split into 3 separate finishes. Note, on a very wet ice year this might not be the case.
The route starts as a small ramp to the base a vertical section of cauliflower and daggers. Don't worry; the ice will be plenty protect able. This vertical section is about 10 metres in length. It leads to a small ledge where you can choose 3 different finishes. The day we did it the left line had a lot of nice dry ice. The middle line was about 1 1/2 feet wide full of cauliflower ice that was dripping wet. The right line had trees in the ice. Each section is separated by a rock arete. I choose the middle line. Why? Good Question. The middle line presented me with a much more enjoyable climb. If I would have known what the top out was like then maybe I would have chosen the left line. The top out was a little scary using only snow and loose rocks to finish. There are a few belay trees at the top.
 
Last Chance Icefall (5.5 kms past macDyrmid Ontario)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:March 2002
Report:WI 2+ FA: Wes Bender , Andrea Bender
It looks a lot bigger from the road. Andrea and myself were duped into making the 20 min shoe across to the base of what looked like it lead to some very good ice. 5 metres of ice turned a corner and ended. 40 metres of bush wacking and you arrive at an 8 metre ice climb, ranging from grade 2 to grade 2 plus. The climb is about 40 metres wide but only 8 metres high. too bad. Still a fun day.
 
Golden Eagle (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:11-Nov-2004
Report:Golden Eagle (WI2, 40-60m) FA: Paul Berger
40 to 60m (depending on start). 2+. This beautiful yellow ice perched high above the Nipigon River offers great views down Lake Forgan, and a great setting amongst cedars and beside a flat vertical rock wall. Several Golden Eagles (we think) sighted. Location 587 033 on the Orient Bay topo. For approach see White Pine Sentinel posting. Support by Helle Moeller.
 
White Pine Sentinel (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:11-Nov-2004
Report:White Pine Sentinel (WI3, 50m) FA: Paul Berger, April 2004.
Grade 3. 50m. Steppy start and then a steeper finish. Dripping. Approached by canoe upstream from Jessie Lake. Caution at small riffles and funny water at three islands. Also approachable after a long drag in from portage trail 300m S of turnaround at the end of Hwy 585. Located at 604 041 on the Orient Bay topo on the East side of the Nipigon River. Climbed with Helle Moeller. Support crew Julian and Julee.
 
Ice Falling On Cedars (Nipigon River)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:11-Nov-2004
Report:Ice Falling On Cedars, Nipigon River (WI2, 40m) FA: Paul Berger.
Grade 2, 40m. In a narrow gully. Approached pulling a canoe over Jessie Lake and across the barely frozen Nipigon River (caution - dam release and strong current in sections means approach without a boat could be dangerous), then by snowshoe 2km N to 575 031 on the Orient Bay topo. By the knob on the East bank just N of the first small islands. Support crew of Julian and Helle.
 
The Trickle Trunk / Running With Scissors (Orient Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:April 2004
Report:The Trickle Trunk (WI4+, 50m)  FA:  Wes Bender, Randy Hyvarinen, 10-Apr-2004.
This new route is located on the cliff band between Mkirby Lake area and the Wall of Doom. Park your vehicle on the pipe line where it crossed the highway. You should be able to see this route from there. Look for the flagged trail head. It is located down the small road a little ways. Walk straight in passing an old collapsed trappers cabin.
Once at the chimney may see 2 climbs. The chimney on the right is The Trickle Trunk. Climb the the narrow chimney, which switches orientation about half way up. Kind of weird. At 3/4 you will come to a clump of trees that will give you a hard time trying to pass. Finish at the large Cedar? with 2 biners on a sling.

Running With Scissors (WI 5 50m) FA: Wes Bender, Brian Bottan, 9-Apr-2006
This year the start of this route is joined with The Trickle Trunk but soon separates and heads up a small chute. I should have brought my pruining sheers with me as I had to break my way through lots of small trees.
Once through the trees you are on easy ground to a very nice rest in a cave. Rest here because the rest of the climb is very steep and sustained. You will need to power over a small cauliflower in the middle of this section. On this day the ice was very soft and allowed for hard swings. On a colder day this would be very delicate climbing on very thin ice. I was able to find 1 17 cm screw in this section but the rest were 13s.

You will reach the top of this vertical section and see a very large tree guarding the summit of this route. You can make an un-protectable short traverse to the right and finish on The Trickle Trunk. This is an awesome climb and it should see more ascents.
Photos from left to right
Wes Bender starting the lower section of The Trickle Trunk Photo: Randy Hyvarinen
Wes Bender starting the upper section of The Trickle Trunk Photo: Randy Hyvarinen
Route Finder Photo: Wes Bender
 
KamAkaze (Kama Bay)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:April 2004
Report:Went up to Kama looking for new routes in the chimneys up and right above Grandy Mardy and found this little gem, in the last significant chimney before the cliff band peters out into the Grandy Mardy creek drainage. Not what we were hoping to do, but an excellent route nonetheless. About 40m left of International Incident which Matt G and I did last year (which was way too wet but in). The route itself begins with some easy mixed/thin ice climbing and then a beautiful, narrow and fairly thin WI4 ribbon to the top. A beautiful route, 45m total. Definitely worth repeating.
Photos from left to right
Kamakaze. Photo: Nick Buda
Wes Bender on the first ascent of Kamakaze (WI4, 45m), Kama Bay. Photo: Nick Buda
 
Sideshow (Whitefish Lake)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:March 2004
Report: Sideshow (WI5+, 55m) FA: Randy Hyvarinen, Mike Kirpan, March 2004.
We went in to climb Artesian Wells, which was in fat and nasty 5+ to 6 conditions only to be suprised by an entirely new route hanging off the wall just right of the resident test piece. A short apron leads to steep technical ice that turns into a 15m free standing column half way up the wall. An absolutely stunning piece of ice. Then two or three metres of easier terrian and you are slapped with a 20m crux of vertical cauliflowers that rise up to a mildly overhanging topout through a system of transparent umbrellas. 55m of, in my opinion, 5+ ice that is easily well protected. A definite must do while you still can and I would recommend an early start to ease the lake crossing. Be sure to stop in and check with Paul at the resort about parking as he also has an ear for stories about epic climbs.
Nick Buda starting the crux of Sideshow (WI5+) during the second ascent. Photo: Randy Hyvarinen.
Nick Buda in the spectacular setting during the second ascent of Sideshow (WI5+), Whitefish Lake. Photo: Frank Pianka.
 
Lateshow (Whitefish Lake)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:March 2004
Report:Lateshow (WI3+, 25m) FA: Leo Tardif, Frank Pianka
A really fun ribbon in the upper corner which ends half way up the wall. The usual Wi3+ line 10m left of AW is no longer touching down, also looks like a couple others formed then fell down on that wall. Get out and do it if you can very soon, a day or two of sun and warm temps or rain will leave the lake impassable. Watch for falling daggers in the warm temps, and be sure to check in with Paul at the resort before leaving your car there. GPS or compass advisable for return journey if there's another whiteout.
 
The Bark of Thor (Thunder Mountain, Sibley)
Submitted by:Wes Bender
Climbed on:2003
Report:The Bark of Thor, WI2-3+, 60m. FA: Paul Berger, Andrew Hail
Approach these two routes via the Kabeyun Trail towards Tee Harbour in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. After about 3km, an old trail leads to Shuniah Lake, from where these climbs first become visible on the cliffs of Thunder Mountain. It will be a 1200m horizontal bushwack to the base (over 2 hours in deep snow, and uphill). The south (left) route is grade 2 on the left side, 60m, but grade 3+ up the middle which was dripping and chandaliered (we climbed left!). The north (right) route is grade 3, 60m, with a series of verticle steps. Both share the first few metres at the bottom, both give great views, and both might be classics, if they didn't take about 4 hours in and another 3 out! Climbed with Andrew Haill.
 

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