Kama Bay
If hard work and hard ice are what you're after, look no further. Approaches here can be long when the snow makes it impossible to drive down the access road, but it's worth it. Classics like Getting Oriented (90m, WI4+) are clearly visible from the highway when they're in. In addition, several harder lines up to WI6+ can be found here (try the testpieces like Ice Breakers).This crag has been the site of an explosion in new route development over the last couple of winters. The number of routes has tripled, with an emphasis on ground-up traditional mixed climbs. Many of the routes offer fantastic climbing on good gear, and await second ascents. Some of the areas best plums still remain for those with the vision and the talent.
Highlights from recent winters include the excellent Java (M5+), Assymetric Warfare (WI5 R), NC-17 (M5+) and the testpiece Necronomicon (M7).
Comments from Raphael Slawinski posted on our conditions forum after his ascent of Necronomicon:
"Note: This was my second visit to Kama Bay, and both times I have been extremely impressed by the quality of traditional mixed climbing there, as well as by the potential for hard new routes. The crag lends itself very well to ground up, traditional mixed climbing, as Scott Backes, Matt Giambrone, James Loveridge and myself (among others) have demonstrated with our new routes. I hope that mixed climbing at Kama will continue to develop in keeping with this adventurous spirit."
Moderate climbers don't despair, Kama Creek is a fantastic moderate afternoon out involving alternate walking and climbing up progressively harder and longer ice steps up to WI3, and is a great place to take beginners to get them hooked on ice climbing.
I like me.